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Thread: Close Calls

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Central FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    Emass:
    My 2 centavos.
    From your statement "...got a lot of catching up to do to you vets. Need to log those hours...", it sounds like you're on an urgent quest to make up for lost time and cram in as much surfing as quickly possible. I can sort of understand that, as I started learning to surf later in life. I'm 57 and have been only at it since August of last year. Sometimes I wish I had started sooner. Surfing is certainly addicting and consuming. I've often had to remind myself to be grateful for the experience (bad and good) and enjoy the journey. It's similar to learning martial arts, with which I've had some experience. Many beginners want to know right off how long it will take to earn a black belt. They're obsessed with getting a black belt in as short amount of time as possible. But in the process, they often miss the whole point, meaning, spirit, and the "art" of martial arts. There's more to it than just the mechanics. There's also a certain "seasoning" that comes with time. This is important too. I think surfing is somewhat similar in that regard.
    Great points you make, agree with it 100%, take your time and enjoy the journey

  2. #152
    Just resurrecting some epicness. Somehow, I always pictured Emass' event going down something like this:


  3. #153
    Poure frost

  4. #154
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    Dec 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valhallalla View Post
    Just resurrecting some epicness. Somehow, I always pictured Emass' event going down something like this:

    Y E S this awesome....the best part a where he just stood up, or didn't just bail the board and figure out how to swimme outta there, or when he passed up the chance to get on an nsp and float outta there

    summer pros, man

  5. #155
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    May 2013
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    i remember when he wrote this but i never commented on it to now i think i was just blown away by it.

  6. #156
    that girl in the green bikini is saweet

  7. #157
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    Apr 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valhallalla View Post
    Just resurrecting some epicness. Somehow, I always pictured Emass' event going down something like this:

    heavy situation brah...

    when ur getting pounded for 2 minutes before realizing ur in waist deep water...

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by cepriano View Post
    heavy situation brah...

    when ur getting pounded for 2 minutes before realizing ur in waist deep water...
    #frostlyfe

  9. #159
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    Am I the only one internally chanting for the guy straddling the breaker to
    give himself a colonoscopy?

  10. #160
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    That guy in the video should probably give up surfing but I mean everyone gets in over their head once in a while but in the guyscase it's not even over his head.