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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    3,705
    Thanks for the responses guys, good advice from some vets. I've been at this a while now, but never as committed as I have been the last few. All good stuff to focus on. I think what i'm getting at with this question is that when it's big like that, the sets sometimes keep me guessing at where I need to be at. Sometimes i'm in the right position catching whatever comes my way, but then there is always that set that breaks 50 yards further out than normal and you have a decision to make, scratch to go get over and out the back, or try to get into it somehow, but it appears your stuck too far inside, because that's where all the set have been showing up, this of course being a beach break, like Cocoa / Patrick's AFB, or New Smyrna / Ponce Inlet.

    What do you do in those situations? My instict is to get over them and out the back, and then get ready for the right one, but by time I get through a few the set is over and now they are back to breaking further inside. It's not that i'm never in the right place, cause i am, but not as often as i'd like. Is this just normal in beach breaks when they get big?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    3,705
    Quote Originally Posted by leethestud View Post
    this picture is so badass!
    +1 So f'ing crazy

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by goosemagoo View Post


    Equipment and technique wouldn't matter. But I would make sure I mailed my life insurance payment, finished up my will and wore floating dog tags.
    There's a thin line between "gnarly" and stupidity. Well that picture is amazing to look at, but that guy has obviously crossed over into stupidity. What if he made a mistake on the drop? He's probably be paralyzed or die.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    900
    Images
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by shark-hunter View Post
    There's a thin line between "gnarly" and stupidity. Well that picture is amazing to look at, but that guy has obviously crossed over into stupidity. What if he made a mistake on the drop? He's probably be paralyzed or die.
    if i remember the story correctly, he got towed in. but yea if he didnt he would have gotten ****ed up

  5. #15
    young guys are indestructible.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    3,705
    Also, when doing a late take off and the wave is starting to pitch, how do you handle that situation, i make some but get tossed sometimes too

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    Thanks for the responses guys, good advice from some vets. I've been at this a while now, but never as committed as I have been the last few. All good stuff to focus on. I think what i'm getting at with this question is that when it's big like that, the sets sometimes keep me guessing at where I need to be at. Sometimes i'm in the right position catching whatever comes my way, but then there is always that set that breaks 50 yards further out than normal and you have a decision to make, scratch to go get over and out the back, or try to get into it somehow, but it appears your stuck too far inside, because that's where all the set have been showing up, this of course being a beach break, like Cocoa / Patrick's AFB, or New Smyrna / Ponce Inlet.

    What do you do in those situations? My instict is to get over them and out the back, and then get ready for the right one, but by time I get through a few the set is over and now they are back to breaking further inside. It's not that i'm never in the right place, cause i am, but not as often as i'd like. Is this just normal in beach breaks when they get big?
    Thats most breaks with long period groundswell...As for sitting, waiting for the sets or getting busy on the inside: It comes down to personal preference. Do you just want to get your wave count up? Or catch an outsider. Are the set waves the BEST waves in terms of shape?Are the outside waves mushing while the inside is barreling? All things to consider. There are more options when there is more wave energy...

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,773
    Quote Originally Posted by shark-hunter View Post
    There's a thin line between "gnarly" and stupidity. Well that picture is amazing to look at, but that guy has obviously crossed over into stupidity. What if he made a mistake on the drop? He's probably be paralyzed or die.
    I think I read that he trashed his ankle at the end of that wave. Got tangled up in the tow board straps. You can get paralyzed surfing two foot at your local beach break. Dude's a Kiwi if I recall and an engineer on a merchant marine ship. Ballzy as Fuchs gets my vote.

    If you gonna be dumb, you better get tough.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    I think I read that he trashed his ankle at the end of that wave. Got tangled up in the tow board straps. You can get paralyzed surfing two foot at your local beach break.

    If you gonna be dumb, you better get tough.
    Being killed doesn't make you "tough". Being paralyzed is a nightmare. Yes you can get killed falling in a bathtub. It's all about percentage chance. For example, driving against oncoming traffic in the wrong direction while drunk at 100mph has a higher percentage of death than falling in the bathtub. I don't think you can compare danger of 2 foot beach break vs riding a wave in that picture. And in all honesty, there are plenty of waves that break heavy and aren't close to that danger level. That picture makes pipe look safe.

  10. #20
    It's 90% fitness and paddling strength / 10% commitment, for a large large majority of the beach breaks we see, equipment changes make little to no difference. A little more size can help you get more paddle speed, but limits you when you spend most of your time taking off under the lip as it is. Bigger on a beach break just means dredgier.