I'm no laird hamilton, so take this with a grain. A hand full of DOH days is the extent of my war stories.
agree with not being undergunned. Bring enough board to...
Get in early. You don't want to be dropping in late if conditions are critical, at least not at first.
Be smart. I tend to ride everything in sight in vb and that has gotten me in trouble on trips or during storms. A big meaty closeout is no fun at all.
"when the wave breaks, don't be there!" so true! Don't get stuck inside! Taking a few big ones on the head will ruin your day.
Man up! It usually takes me missing a good one to get in the zone. "Don't be a pu55y Lee!" The reward is ultimate.
Results 21 to 30 of 71
Thread: Big Waves vs. Small Waves
May 8, 2013, 12:31 PM #21
May 8, 2013, 12:43 PM #22
May 8, 2013, 01:18 PM #23
May 8, 2013, 01:35 PM #24
May 8, 2013, 01:47 PM #25
Seems that what you have on your hands is a great small wave quiver. Some may argue, but fish are loose and can be sketchy in steep surf, in my experience. They usually have wide tails, soft rails, and little to no rocker. Maybe LBCrew or someone who knows the specifics of that one could be more helpful.
That longboard can handle the surf if you can, but it is pretty demanding to ride a log in big waves. If you really think you have a reason to get a board for bigger waves, I would go for a standard high performance shortboard, in 3 fin, squash or pin tail, and like 2-4 inches longer than your coil. Foam is your friend so don't go buy a pro model or anything.
I've got a pin tail 6'6 that is my traveler board but a far stretch from a gun. I ride it in anything over head high and steep. It's thick in the stringer, sharp rails, and lots of rocker.
Last edited by leethestud; May 8, 2013 at 02:03 PM.
May 8, 2013, 02:27 PM #26
May 8, 2013, 03:10 PM #27
May 8, 2013, 03:11 PM #28
May 8, 2013, 03:12 PM #29
i find smaller is better in fast hollow beach breaks, but it really depends on the wave your surfing and shape of board.
example - i'm 6'0 160lbs and pretty much stick to my 6'2 standard shortboard for just about everything from chest high beach break to DOH reef/points.
i just broke my 6'2. my 6'0 is getting repaired so i took out my only other option - a 6'3 roundtail, lots of rocker, etc...in chest-head beach break and had so much trouble getting into waves. altho bigger, the shape is not right for those conditions.
commitment and concentration is super important too.
May 8, 2013, 03:13 PM #30