Was in Ocean County at my sister-in-law's for Mothers Day. Brought the boards with me just in case. We all walked to the beach, and found some perfect peelers on an empty sandbar. My daughter and I went out, she lasted about 15 mins in her 3/2 (doesn't have the natural insulation that I do.) Usually get sketched out surfing solo, but was too fun not to take advantage.
I was out there a little after 6am getting beat up in the slop just south of that jetty. It was only my 2nd time out so I was happy to work on my paddle and balance while staying out of everyone's way. Great to see someone captured the action yesterday morning!
Ahhh... thought so. That nice cutback you did made me think you were on that HPLB. I didn't know you had one. The staged rocker on that board is key to how that board works. That's the fourth or fifth generation of that design.