I am a native Houstonian and have been surfing Galveston and Surfside since high school. For the past 10 years I've been riding a 7'5" Haut shaped like a longboard. Although the board is great and much better than the gun I tried to ride in HS, I am almost 50 years old now and have started missing more waves than I wanted.
For my birthday got a brand new Walden 9' and took it to Surfside on Saturday. I had the wife and kids with me so I went to the public beach past the beach houses (~3 miles east of 332) rather than the jetty.
Conditions were waist high on sets, nice swell, and some wind out of the east. Perfect, I thought. However, all I could manage was a few short rides. The outside (second sand bar) was barely breaking with just a bit of foam on top for about 30 feet then it would die. I was hoping the longboard would take me on into the inside, but it just went flat.
The inside was dumpy and closing out, and although I could get on, I couldn't get the board turned across the face.
Am I doing something wrong?. Wrong conditions for a longboard? Is the 9' that much different than my 7'5"? When paddling for a swell on the outside it felt like a tank. Just couldn't get it moving. Appreciate any tips.