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  1. #21
    Turtle rolling is not very effective for me. Maybe I just don't know how to do it right, but I think rolling off your board and then jumping back on is too time consuming for the short period swell we typically have. You are more likely to get stuck in the impact zone than anything. Best bet for me on a longer board is to time your paddle out during a lull. Paddle very fast and go out farther than you think you need to. If you get caught in the impact zone, just ride the white water in and then wait for the next lull. To be honest, getting out back on a bigger day on a longer board is not easy.

  2. #22
    simply put - you're over thinking it.

    I've been surfing the same break for over twenty years and it's always different. Butterfly flaps it's wings and we get epic surf or skunked. Which then effects the sand bottom. Like Gump, you never know what you're gonna get.

    Ride it all - Just go, go, go and go. Just don't bring anybody with you.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
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    Quote Originally Posted by RIer View Post
    Turtle rolling is not very effective for me. Maybe I just don't know how to do it right, but I think rolling off your board and then jumping back on is too time consuming for the short period swell we typically have. You are more likely to get stuck in the impact zone than anything. Best bet for me on a longer board is to time your paddle out during a lull. Paddle very fast and go out farther than you think you need to. If you get caught in the impact zone, just ride the white water in and then wait for the next lull. To be honest, getting out back on a bigger day on a longer board is not easy.
    Try not rolling off your board. Grab the rails and hug your body too it, then tip the board upside down by shifting your weight to one side. Now you're under water, let the wave pass over and say hi to the honu. Roll back up by pressing with your hip and shoulder on the opposite side. That's the "roll" part of the Hawaiian Roll. If you need to, add a little kick to get you all the way back over. When done right, it's one smooth movement. Like rolling a white water kayak. I'm not a fan though, mo betta duckdive, even a longboard. There's some good threads on that.

  4. #24
    RIer - I'm on a 6-1, a 6-6, and a 7-0. I use the 6-6 most often as it's a fish and most versatile for these ever-changing, less than utopian conditions. I agree getting off the board and back on is to generally be avoided in the short period. When I was turtle rolling last night I was wrapping my arms around the underside of the board as if to hug it and then turning quickly to one side capsizing myself and continuing that turn underwater for a full revolution where I come right side up with chest on the board in paddle position and ready to get further out before the next comes. I was giving a few kicks under water as well and it seemed to help.

    To those saying I'm over-thinking it, this reflection is being done when I'm back home and in between sessions or at night. When I'm out there for my 1-3 hour sessions, I may have a simple plan for the day, but the time is largely spent in the moment, with senses wide open, giving full effort and enjoying the heck out of it. I'm an analytical athlete that has found success being that way. It's who I am, and don't worry, I'm having a blast.

    I filmed last night's session putting the cam on a bench on the boardwalk and zooming it in on the other couple guys I joined up with. Just reviewed the film now and it showed me several things that I would have no way of knowing. Looks like my takeoffs are generally good and quick and explosive, yet need to be less of a hop and more of a smooth transition to my feet since the hopping factor appears to lift my nose up out of the water and force me to fall off the back of the wave even if I stay on the board. Also, I saw several reps where I got the takeoff and drop, yet turned right when I should've gone left to stay in the face. Trying to then see what visual indicators were there that would've shown me that but I missed. And when I'm done assessing my takeoff reps, I have 45 minutes of waves breaking that I can study to learn even more about that break I was at and how it behaves at that given tide, wind, etc. Two birds with one stone.

    Thanks again for the helpful responses guys.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    Try not rolling off your board. Grab the rails and hug your body too it, then tip the board upside down by shifting your weight to one side. Now you're under water, let the wave pass over and say hi to the honu. Roll back up by pressing with your hip and shoulder on the opposite side. That's the "roll" part of the Hawaiian Roll. If you need to, add a little kick to get you all the way back over. When done right, it's one smooth movement. Like rolling a white water kayak. I'm not a fan though, mo betta duckdive, even a longboard. There's some good threads on that.
    Ha! You posted this while I was just posting my last one explaining that this is just what I did and that it was working well. Funny you mention the kayak analogy as that's exactly what came to mind. You're right, it is one smooth movement when done properly. I like it because you are finessing your body under/around the force of the wave and not really opposing it in any way. With the tonnage and psi that wave contains, I'd think we want to resist as little of it as possible. It works really well for me when some heavy whitewater already broke and is coming at me hard. I'm still going with the duckdive when passing through the unbroken or about to break face.

    So for my knowledge, this is a Hawaiian Roll and not a Turtle Roll? They make those at sushi joints?

    Thanks Gaffer. Again, these are the responses I'm looking for - to either confirm what I'm doing is correct or incorrect, and how/what to modify if needed.
    Last edited by EmassSpicoli; May 14, 2013 at 07:02 PM.

  6. #26
    I thought these were all very good questions.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Ha! You posted this while I was just posting my last one explaining that this is just what I did and that it was working well. Funny you mention the kayak analogy as that's exactly what came to mind. You're right, it is one smooth movement when done properly. I like it because you are finessing your body under/around the force of the wave and not really opposing it in any way. With the tonnage and psi that wave contains, I'd think we want to resist as little of it as possible. It works really well for me when some heavy whitewater already broke and is coming at me hard. I'm still going with the duckdive when passing through the unbroken or about to break face.

    Thanks Gaffer. Again, these are the responses I'm looking for - to either confirm what I'm doing is correct or incorrect, and how/what to modify if needed.
    You're dumb

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wilmington
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    2,325
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    With the tonnage and psi

    Emphasis on PSI.....gruvi......

  9. #29
    Check this video out....very helpful for me in terms of a strategy (I am a total kook), although it sounds like you are doing a lot of what this guy advocates!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAyhwpzYvaQ

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by KookyGook View Post
    Check this video out....very helpful for me in terms of a strategy (I am a total kook), although it sounds like you are doing a lot of what this guy advocates!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAyhwpzYvaQ
    Thanks KG. These were the first videos I watched when starting out, especially this one. These guys are excellent coaches/teachers in many ways. I am getting there steadily, and doing more and more of what they list and illustrate, though still need to do more of it and do it more consistently. Wish these guys put out material every day of the week.