I have been nagging my daughter for a few years to try to learn to surf. Last weekend the waves here were 2 feet and glassy early at low tide and she finally agreed to give it a go. After her nervousness finally disappeared we paddled out and sat calmly watching wave after wave pass by and after a few failed attempts at catching a wave, that one lucky wave picked her up and she rode it in ( on her belly ) .As she paddled back out and remembered most of the good stuff I tried to tell her about paddling she was excited and I believe I witnessed the addiction for the first time. I forgot all about those feelings until she paddled back out and at 13 years old she was just as stoked as I remembered being. She described the sounds of the wave tapping at the board and the acceleration of the 2 footer as if she just rode the best wave ever.
After 2 hours in the water and numerous belly rides she finally stood up and although it was just the white water she did it, she surfed!
I never thought I would get to have that experience and as I think back I am grateful for the inspiration of all of those surfers who helped me along the way , The good the bad and the ugly.
School is out in a few days for her and believe it or not I am so pumped for the summer surf of Fla for the first time before hurricane season! Bring on the Thigh to waist high surf , oh hell bring on the ankle high surf.
I hope some of you Dads get to experience this phenom or maybe you already have!