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  1. #61
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    And therein lies the beauty of bodyboarding Liam, it's not "cool" therefore will never be trendy...I've seen many of the types you're talking about, yuppie hipster douches, you stand up guys can have them.
    touche. Yes, I liked surfing when it was more underground but I'm old. Now, everyone claims to be a surfer and have to make sure everyone knows that they are "a surfer"

  2. #62
    Join Date
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    It sucks dude, it really does...and I feel for ya cuz it really sucks seeing something you love get exploited...I love surfing too, but when I see the types you're talking about I'm really glad I love the sponge so much.

  3. #63
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrels4liam View Post
    touche. Yes, I liked surfing when it was more underground but I'm old. Now, everyone claims to be a surfer and have to make sure everyone knows that they are "a surfer"
    Shoulda been here yesterday brah

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by ClemsonSurf View Post
    Shoulda been here yesterday brah
    LOL! I bet you are a shredder and love the antichrist Dave Matthews.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrels4liam View Post
    LOL! I bet you are a shredder and love the antichrist Dave Matthews.
    Yup, elated you're back too.

    You know it was really great in 2007.

  6. #66
    Quote Originally Posted by ClemsonSurf View Post
    Yup, elated you're back too.

    You know it was really great in 2007.
    Probably was better than all the non-surfers on the site now. Wait there were poseur surfers on the site in 2007. I stand corrected. Stand up straight as a pole and surf, shredder. It's all in the hips. It's all in the hips. Bend those knees happy gilmore. You are such a lady's man, lmao! toolbag

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Here
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    Obviously, its not a wave unless your are surfing a 23 foot New Jersey Double-Overheader.

    Here is what you will deal with...

    Once upon a time, I was born. I grew up inland in the Confederate capital. Despite all that one can say about the place, there were kids all over the place decked out in surf gear. I refused to (and somewhat regret) ever surf. It made no sense to me that one could be a surfer and live 2 hours from the coast and do it maybe once a month except when they went to their parent's beach house in the OBX in the summer. There were Billabong shirts galore and stories of shreddin all day every day.

    I am no saint, but that just screamed kook to me. Screw it, I skated. A lot of folks were too cool for that because they are surfers. They were in the element. They got shacked more than a hobo.

    I move to the beach. I get a call. A buddy of mine tells me he is coming to visit. He brings his cokehead of a girlfriend with him. She is so gonna surf! That day, Surfline reports that there are 5-8 foot waves at the Jetty. She is going out there because there are finally waves in VB. I ask her if she has before. She says yes. She has a lot of experience running, playing field hockey and wake surfing. A lot of people from back home surf. We have been surfing just about every day back home.

    I'm going to stop it there. The point is everyone "surfs" now. One could reply, I like the water. Another will say I SURF! Have fun this summer. A lot of folks will be chasing Mavricks.

  8. #68
    Emass, one of the joys of surfing is turning off the analytical parts of the mind and just be in a state of flow. Let yourself learn to surf just by being there and feeling the waves. It's like a baby learning to walk. He doesn't know how he did it, nor does he think about it and plan it out. Sometimes super bright people can be their own worst enemy when learning something where the thinking is more intuitive.

  9. #69
    Betty, I hear that and agree. You use the word "flow" and that's a term used by many when discussing "the zone" and peak performance. We are talking about it in another forum thread actually at the moment. Flow is what it's all about no matter what you're talking about in life. It's the place to be.

    You use the analogy of learning to walk and that's a good descriptor of the body's intuition and adaptive resilience. The body does well with adapting to things like balance when you just give it the chance to. Excessive thinking and analysis freezes and inhibits the body from doing what it needs to. From a biomechanics perspective, good form is actually less work and less movement than bad form. "Skillful" execution occurs in time when the body trims the fat on its physical movements and simplifies it and streamlines it. It's a simple formula but not always easy to get into or maintain the relaxed mindset.

    My search for improvement on a technical level stems from not taking for granted what surfing requires at the higher levels of execution and naively thinking I'll keep progressing if I just go out there paddling any which way and turning into a wave any which way expecting that it will just happen. If there are aspects of my technique that are a hindrance or detriment to moving forward at all, then I want to identify and modify those aspects. If I'm hitting a sticking point and not catching many waves or being able to get longer rides, it could be a matter of poor conditions and close outs but it's also likely that aspects of my form could be changed to change the result. Someone in the "saw something cool today" thread talked about a kid they saw shredding crap waves with a half broken sponge top with no fins. The technique, form, and strategy we use has great consequence input performance and that's undeniable.

    Mental assessment and off-time deliberation is part of my process just as the many hours I've been fortunate to get on the water are. I enjoy all of it.

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wilmington
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    2,322
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Betty, I hear that and agree. You use the word "flow" and that's a term used by many when discussing "the zone" and peak performance. We are talking about it in another forum thread actually at the moment. Flow is what it's all about no matter what you're talking about in life. It's the place to be.

    You use the analogy of learning to walk and that's a good descriptor of the body's intuition and adaptive resilience. The body does well with adapting to things like balance when you just give it the chance to. Excessive thinking and analysis freezes and inhibits the body from doing what it needs to. From a biomechanics perspective, good form is actually less work and less movement than bad form. "Skillful" execution occurs in time when the body trims the fat on its physical movements and simplifies it and streamlines it. It's a simple formula but not always easy to get into or maintain the relaxed mindset.

    My search for improvement on a technical level stems from not taking for granted what surfing requires at the higher levels of execution and naively thinking I'll keep progressing if I just go out there paddling any which way and turning into a wave any which way expecting that it will just happen. If there are aspects of my technique that are a hindrance or detriment to moving forward at all, then I want to identify and modify those aspects. If I'm hitting a sticking point and not catching many waves or being able to get longer rides, it could be a matter of poor conditions and close outs but it's also likely that aspects of my form could be changed to change the result. Someone in the "saw something cool today" thread talked about a kid they saw shredding crap waves with a half broken sponge top with no fins. The technique, form, and strategy we use has great consequence input performance and that's undeniable.

    Mental assessment and off-time deliberation is part of my process just as the many hours I've been fortunate to get on the water are. I enjoy all of it.
    Try to surf more like Laird, just copy him... everything he does... everything he is... be Laird.