when it's head high beach break or smaller an hollow...
Big difference in my mind between head high and hollow, and thigh or waist high and hollow. No one go-to board for that disparate range for me. And I'm 6'1, low 190s, and coming up on 50 years old.
At the top of the range, 6'6 x 19ish x 2 9/16 round tail thruster hpsb, single to double concave bottom
At the bottom of that range, depending on my mood, either 6'0 x 21ish x 2 5/8 retro fish with glassed on wood keels; some modern tweaks. Or... 9'3 x 23 x 2 7/8 single fin classic log; nose concave, to flat, to rolled vee bottom.
A 6'4 x 21 x 2 1/2 quad groveler, and a 9'6 hplb are second choices.
I'm not sure what the original poster was getting at- but a board that is good for
Me from knee hi to over head (or 23ft..) , mush to juice, heavy winter wetsuit to heavy summer crowds (read:ding resistant) is the good ol plastic... Umm I mean tuflite 6'8 merrick flier... Can't beat it for any wave condition... Other then riding a longboard.
Not my favorite board to ride- but I could ride it in any condition and have loads of fun!
just curious what some people ride...I'm 5'8'' 155lbs and i ride two boards and maybe i'm selling my self short on that notion. when it's big, shoulder to over head i ride a 5'11'' x 18'' x 2-1/4'' round/pin thruster which sucks when im in a full suit.....anything else is on a 5'6'' x 21'' x 2-3/8'' twin keel fish. i feel like i ride the fish too much but anything head high and under, i find my self reaching for it....fun little board.
5'10, 172lbs at 6% (down from 187 in March due to daily water time in cold ass water). Yet to see a legit hollow wave but will soon. Got a quiver of sticks but I think I'd go with the 6' 18" 2" 5star thruster. And probably eat $hit three dozen times before I had my hand in the green face. Then it's history, brah. Things are gonna change. I can feel it.