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Thread: Weak spot

  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Cosby's nephew View Post
    I too can't stand sitting on the board for too long. It puts you out of paddling position and when you see a set coming in you have to turn and find the sweet spot on your board again. It's also uncomfortable. If nothing is coming in at all I'll hang on the board and float in the water, much more comfortable than being on the board. makes you look like a "kook" though
    BCN - you got that right about being ready for the set on your board's sweet spot. Something I think of all the time out there.

    I don't lay on my board like a corpse doing the dead man's float. If I'm prone, which is basically all the time, my back is arched with chest up to see the set coming in, ready to move quickly, and for all other times, just in an athletic posture. If that makes me look like a kook, then I don't ever want to look unkookish. This sit on your board all day crap is no different than sitting on an inflatable couch. There's far more stable objects for that at Wal-Mart if you're into that sort of thing.

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Mattyb View Post
    Surfing is only thing that cures my issues from war. But I guess sometimes I bring them to the water without trying to. Its getting old. Just want to be normal
    Thank you for your service Mattyb. Thank you even more for your service in that you continue to carry weight of that duty with you afterwards.

    As exceptionality is the key to survival, be glad that you're different. I personally am glad I'll never be normal.

    Again, thank you.

  3. #43
    Me too except my neck vertebrae auto-fused by themselves without the surgery. I try to look up a lot less when paddling out and push up a little when I do to use peripheral vision. I sit up when waiting. Anything to avoid looking up and hyper-extending and ~2 hrs. is enough these days. Wish I'd known this a long time ago and was careful. Never seen the paddle air vest so will have to check it out. THX.
    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    Scbe, my father in law had to have a couple of vertebrae in his neck fused two Aprils ago. Just repetitive motion injury from paddling and arching his neck and back for 50 odd years, couple of big Slough wipeouts too I guess. I bought him one of those Paddle Air vests and although he pretty much thought I was off my rocker, he uses it now. Says it really helps with his neck and back.

    Mine are fast cars, strong drink and my Achilles tendon, left ankle.

  4. #44
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    Wow. I really appreciate the kind words and support! I will turn off the emotions now as I can't wait to read more thrashings to shredmachines ego.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattyb View Post
    I have ptsd from combat in Iraq and received a traumatic brain injury in the marine corps 3 months after I returned home from middle east. Right before I paddle out, whether its knee high or head high, I get crazy weak and my legs are heavy. Sometimes I get to lineup and have to let a few waves roll by and then it passes. Other times I get pummeled and don't have the energy to even make it outside. Its scary and sometimes I faint. I think its anxiety of not having control. Weird thing is im pyching and happy before paddling out. But then it comes. Surfing is only thing that cures my issues from war. But I guess sometimes I bring them to the water without trying to. Its getting old. Just want to be normal
    Thank you for your service and your sacrifice. But be careful out there.
    For me there's nothing better than being on, in, or under the water. Surfing is my favorite, but I also enjoy kayaking, sailing, fishing, and skin diving. They all can be therapeutic. Do you have any buds who also surf?

  6. #46
    Slipped rib goes in and out when I duck dive or paddle hard to catch a wave
    Twice torn calf I'm told has scar tissue making it prone to future tears
    recently broken hand, now with weather predicting aches
    minor tweaked shoulder and knee
    everything tired from supporting my 220lbs
    ..my giant wiener that makes it hard to lay flat on my board :-)

  7. #47
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    I do. Thanks. I try and surf with a bud or at least within eye sight of another surfer. With my head being all foggy if I take a header it could be lights out for me. So I try and surf smart and amongst friends.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattyb View Post
    I do. Thanks. I try and surf with a bud or at least within eye sight of another surfer. With my head being all foggy if I take a header it could be lights out for me. So I try and surf smart and amongst friends.
    Wow, my problems seem pretty small now! Thanks for your service. If your ever in Texas send me a message.

  9. #49
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    Thanks man

  10. #50
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    Hilarious thread, good perspective from across the spectrum.

    I get side and back cramps like a mofo..Like someone said before bananas and coconut water works well.... pickle juice even better.

    Tore some ligaments in my ankled getting drilled...so that acts up after a long sesh.