Two months in G-Land, huh? That's exciting. I reckon that did alot for you - surfing, culture, adventure wise. Did the Aussies bust your chops? I hope you were a drinker. You see any tigers?
Now really, were you stoked the whole two months? I know the waves were good, but did you get antsy being there after awhile? Living at the fringes of a snake, bug and tiger jungle. Did the non-surfing downtime ever drive you a bit crazy? Did you ever say, " Dang I wish I was back in Jersey with a pizza?"
I don't know, 3rd world, hot places aren't really my cup of tea. I'm a cold weather person, and I don't like strange languages. Spanish I can deal with. Awww man I especially don't like languages that seem to be composed of nothing but consonants. "Ftrgfrddew" isn't a word. Ya know what it is that I be sayin' ?
I'm not being cocky here, but when did you surf 15 foot New Jersey? Hurricane Gloria and the winter of 1986-87 are the only times I really remember it being rideable at that size. But then again I lost some months along the way due to Kassers vodka. Hey, you aren't Mike Gleason are you? Rol Woolson? A Hopper?
Honestly, I was pretty much stoked the whole time. One I got into the swing of things goin on good size waves and baggin some serious shacks, all I wanted was more more more. Never missed Jersey a bit. The food was good and plentiful, and the constant flux of people comin in and out was cool cuz I met so many people who were stoked. I guess it kept me stoked in that way too. If you are into hiking and exploring that place was awesome.
The Aussie only gave me a hard time only in good fun though. Pretty much a barrel of laughs. Not much drinking goin on, unless you brought your own. The keg was tapped at 6 pm and shut off at 10 pm sharp. The lights went out at 11 pm. A couple of Hawaiins and Aussies turned me onto some hashish which was nice.
Didn't see any tigers but I did see a panther one night right below my hut. Scared the **** out of me cuz there was no way to block the steps to your hit. One night I was woken up by some monkees fighting just outside my hut. Sounded like someone being skinned alive.
Ironically I didn't get one scratch at G Land but hours before I was to get on the plane home I got clipped in a chest high barrel at Uluwatu and came up with my back looking like hamburger. I extended the 5 hour layover in Amsterdamn to 2 days to ease the pain. Eeeww! That's another trip altogether.
But 3rd world tropical doesn't bother me. I enjoy the laid back slow pace. I spent six months in Costa Rica prior to that trip.
Surfed 15 ft Jersey just as it went offshore after hurricane Bertha passed by us 100 mile off the coast in 94 I believe it was. By dark it was 10 foot. Next day waist high.
I'm not Gleason. Whatched him grow up and he thanked me for calling him a p*ssy when he was young and the waves got big. Not Rol but he's a friend. The Hoppers were a little older than me. Live up the street from me. Some of the most raw talent I've ever seen those two. They moved to Cal. Dave is still rippin and Doug got spracked out on the H. He's sober now and a family man weekend surfer.