Stoked to hit the pond for my fourth consecutive dawn patrol this week. It's been pretty damn good all things considered for this time of year. Will give a recap on the sessions earlier this week as I've really been studying the tides effects on the break at different points of time and wind conditions.
4mph offshores with just under 2ft swell at 10 seconds (medium period but long for aroubd here) to start this morning and we are right at mid-tide as it's coming in which is ideal for this spot. Pretty stoked to have something to ride and it's beautiful weather.
Dawn Patrols have been good, but my Favorite summer thing is
Sunday late afternoon till dark (sometimes Saturday), after all the pens and lighters have been packed up and everyone is sun and surfed out, full of food and Tired...
The wind dies down and good spots get Great. Relatively uncrowded leftovers.
This week we didn't get amazing surf but for this time of year im very happy. I DP almost every day theres waves. get up at about 4am, in the water by 445-5 am. Sat I got 3 hours in, Sun got 2 hours, Tues surfed for 3 hours, Weds got 2 hours and I just got back from another 3 hour session. All those days I was the first or one of the first guys out, surfed alone or with just a couple other guys for the first hour or so for all those days. Very happy. especially considering one or two of those days the forecast wasn't too good, but if theres the slightest chance of waves im there, so acouple of those days I expected to check it out and just head home but it was better than forecasted. knowing your spot goes a long way. not complaining because it tends to keep the crowds away but this morning the SI forecast was all red, ended up being waist high and glassy, got a butt load of great waves surfing a peak all to myself except for these 2 girls who paddled out but I don't think they knew what they were doing, I didn't see them catch one wave so it didn't bother me. eye candy for between sets ya know