Hangin out over some beer and the subject of 'favorite part of surfing' comes up. Most of the guys(and gal) agreed it is visiting the green room. As much as I love that rare chance to get in a tube, for me the best part is the drop. That moment when you are perched right on the peak and then feel all the speed of a nice steep face...that is what does it for me.Everything after that is pure bonus.
I was in the minority with this particular group and it made me wonder what the swellinfo forum might think about this.
All I want to do is fly. Feel weightless and free. That and knowing I'm either about to lift to the heavens and sky dive back down or get thrown in a colossal human washing machine. I enjoy both to a nearly equal level.
I've got a long way to go in development, skill and experience and definitely am stoked to progress eventually to shredding. However, my preference will be big wave riding as that's the uptime takeoff and drop-in.