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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Ocean City Nj
    Posts
    320
    Images
    1
    Sticking air drops in big surf and pumping down on section as fast as possible.

  2. #32
    I would agree with everyone who says the drop. Nothing else like it. The rush it gives is unmatched.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by zaGaffer View Post
    Running my fingers along the inside wall of a stand up barrel and watching their wake track up, over and behind me.
    Sounds lovely, Gaff. I've never met the full blown out stand-up barrel, but I've enjoyed many shiny walls. Anyway, a summer or two ago, I spoke to a fair skinned summer pro - one of the "dude, did you just see me stick that 360 air?" More like you simply twisted your waist, but that's just my opinion. Well, he was telling me about his "favorite part of the ride."

    "I just like taking goofy footed waves and just tickling the wave." He then proceeded to motion backside as if he was "tickling" the wave.

    I haven't seen him since, but I'll never forget what he said to me. It was one of those Office Space moments, when Lawrence (next door neighbor) learns about having a "case of the Mondays."

    "No. No, man. ****, no, man. I believe you'd get your ass kicked saying something like that."



    To me, the best part of the ride is knowing that you're riding a wave that only lives once. You are its sole inhabitant; temporarily, that is. Can we talk about semicolons? I love semicolons.
    Last edited by dlrouen; Jun 26, 2013 at 01:37 AM. Reason: Video

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by ocsurf32 View Post
    Sticking air drops in big surf and pumping down on section as fast as possible.
    when you make the section give that shoulder hoppin kook a friendly push and watch him eat it as you go by him...

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by dlrouen View Post
    Sounds lovely, Gaff. I've never met the full blown out stand-up barrel, but I've enjoyed many shiny walls. Anyway, a summer or two ago, I spoke to a fair skinned summer pro - one of the "dude, did you just see me stick that 360 air?" More like you simply twisted your waist, but that's just my opinion. Well, he was telling me about his "favorite part of the ride."

    "I just like taking goofy footed waves and just tickling the wave." He then proceeded to motion backside as if he was "tickling" the wave.

    I haven't seen him since, but I'll never forget what he said to me. It was one of those Office Space moments, when Lawrence (next door neighbor) learns about having a "case of the Mondays."

    "No. No, man. ****, no, man. I believe you'd get your ass kicked saying something like that."

    To me, the best part of the ride is knowing that you're riding a wave that only lives once. You are its sole inhabitant; temporarily, that is. Can we talk about semicolons? I love semicolons.
    Awesome post, brah. In all ways.

    Love those "best part of it is that it will never come again" exchanges with random people. While it's "you had to be there" for most anyone you replay it for, I can relate in general (not just surfing) and perhaps others on here as well. Sounds like even if he was way out there, he was pretty stoked and just got to be happy for him. Dude was in the happy barn. I try to live in the happy barn.

    The impermanence of a single wave is definitely something to consider and appreciate. When I'm ducking diving out the back and I'm not able to ride a wave that looks awesome all of a sudden mid-set because I'm just not prepared to turn and attempt takeoff, or if I opt to go for the following wave in a set because it is expected to be better than the one at hand, I get slightly pissed but then compare it to a chick that walks by and you should've kicked some game to..."there will always be another". That may be true (unless all oceans bottle-neck in expedited fashion like the tideless Mediterranean; will always have wave pools in AZ) but your concept of the wave you are riding "in the moment" of time-stopped elemental experience is how we should treat all rides and I think most of us do. Because it seems we will remember all rides we get for the rest of our lives; perhaps the top level brahs have too many to remember.

    The only time I don't enjoy the essence of each ride for the greatness it's worth is when I'm not totally focused during the sesh, which does happen but shouldn't.

    As for punctuation, let's get after the grammar talk!! Love when you guys talk nerdy to me.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by bigmofo View Post
    when you make the section give that shoulder hoppin kook a friendly push and watch him eat it as you go by him...
    That is definitely a sight to be seen so I can only imagine what it feels like. My goal is to do that to a SUP rider when he cuts me off. The desired technique in that event would be a "hadoogan!!" jump double-kick from Mortal Kombat then landing back on your stick and smacking the lip like it ain't no thang. Lofty aspirations, but within the realm of possibility. And insanity. You could always land on HIS board (raft) and then try to rip that 14-footer in any way you can.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,213
    I like the feeling of a vertical re-entry...you've already got a ton of speed going up, then to almost go past the lip, then get hung up for a moment, then the re-drop without having to paddle... what a rush! Never towed in but that probably comes close, especially on a macking 23 foot drop. A good barrel (3 plus seconds) is like being in another world. So it's a toss up. Making a gnarly barrel seems to be more of a rush than making a big drop. Especially backside.

  8. #38
    the drop, followed by the hand drag on the wave face. Or tucking in back side way low with a rail grab.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wilmington
    Posts
    2,340
    On second thought, I gotta say getting cut off by a dolphin is the best.

  10. #40
    While all the treasures mentioned thus far are gifts from above, how about a smokeshow female surfer that looks like perfection in that wetsuit, has a great face in a natural beauty way, AND can ride with some skill?

    If this serendipitous natural phenomenon presents itself to you on a colder day, I bet you that the increased blood flow will have a positive thermogenic effect for the rest of your session. And the rest of the day.