I would agree with everyone who says the drop. Nothing else like it. The rush it gives is unmatched.
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Thread: Best part of the ride
Jun 26, 2013, 12:48 AM #31Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
Jun 26, 2013, 12:54 AM #32
"I just like taking goofy footed waves and just tickling the wave." He then proceeded to motion backside as if he was "tickling" the wave.
I haven't seen him since, but I'll never forget what he said to me. It was one of those Office Space moments, when Lawrence (next door neighbor) learns about having a "case of the Mondays."
"No. No, man. ****, no, man. I believe you'd get your ass kicked saying something like that."
To me, the best part of the ride is knowing that you're riding a wave that only lives once. You are its sole inhabitant; temporarily, that is. Can we talk about semicolons? I love semicolons.
Last edited by dlrouen; Jun 26, 2013 at 02:37 AM. Reason: Video
Jun 26, 2013, 12:59 AM #33Junior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2012
Jun 26, 2013, 01:41 AM #34
Love those "best part of it is that it will never come again" exchanges with random people. While it's "you had to be there" for most anyone you replay it for, I can relate in general (not just surfing) and perhaps others on here as well. Sounds like even if he was way out there, he was pretty stoked and just got to be happy for him. Dude was in the happy barn. I try to live in the happy barn.
The impermanence of a single wave is definitely something to consider and appreciate. When I'm ducking diving out the back and I'm not able to ride a wave that looks awesome all of a sudden mid-set because I'm just not prepared to turn and attempt takeoff, or if I opt to go for the following wave in a set because it is expected to be better than the one at hand, I get slightly pissed but then compare it to a chick that walks by and you should've kicked some game to..."there will always be another". That may be true (unless all oceans bottle-neck in expedited fashion like the tideless Mediterranean; will always have wave pools in AZ) but your concept of the wave you are riding "in the moment" of time-stopped elemental experience is how we should treat all rides and I think most of us do. Because it seems we will remember all rides we get for the rest of our lives; perhaps the top level brahs have too many to remember.
The only time I don't enjoy the essence of each ride for the greatness it's worth is when I'm not totally focused during the sesh, which does happen but shouldn't.
As for punctuation, let's get after the grammar talk!! Love when you guys talk nerdy to me.
Jun 26, 2013, 01:44 AM #35
Jun 26, 2013, 02:27 AM #36Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Singer Island
I like the feeling of a vertical re-entry...you've already got a ton of speed going up, then to almost go past the lip, then get hung up for a moment, then the re-drop without having to paddle... what a rush! Never towed in but that probably comes close, especially on a macking 23 foot drop. A good barrel (3 plus seconds) is like being in another world. So it's a toss up. Making a gnarly barrel seems to be more of a rush than making a big drop. Especially backside.
Jun 26, 2013, 02:37 AM #37Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
the drop, followed by the hand drag on the wave face. Or tucking in back side way low with a rail grab.
Jun 26, 2013, 02:44 AM #38
On second thought, I gotta say getting cut off by a dolphin is the best.
Jun 26, 2013, 02:51 AM #39
While all the treasures mentioned thus far are gifts from above, how about a smokeshow female surfer that looks like perfection in that wetsuit, has a great face in a natural beauty way, AND can ride with some skill?
If this serendipitous natural phenomenon presents itself to you on a colder day, I bet you that the increased blood flow will have a positive thermogenic effect for the rest of your session. And the rest of the day.
Jun 26, 2013, 02:56 AM #40