looking for a stronger board, or suggestions on changing up the shape.
looking for some advice on boards.
ive broken 2 in the past 2 months. booo
my boards have always been poly, i do have an epoxy(its my backup board when my poly's need some ding repair) the epoxy is ok but i feel like surf better and can dig in with a poly better.
the one i broke today was a Patterson. Dimensions were 6'2, 18 1/2, 2 1/4. i loved it. the last board was pretty much the same too
would going a little thicker help. say 2 1/2?
what about width? up it to 18 3/4 - 19?
but i dont want to float too much. i'm 6'0 150 lbs. i could go down to 6'0 or 6'1.
Last edited by gnurider7; Jun 27, 2013 at 12:41 AM.
Too much shredding brah.... I would be inclined to suggest a double stringer. In fact I just talked to a shredder up this way the other day on the beach - he way just getting out after getting barreled - I didn't paddle out cause the waves where too big- 23ft sets- he was telling about how much he bench presses-name is njshreddermachinee... You know him?? Jk
You can change the construction, or the shape, or both.
Aside from going with EPS/Epoxy (which I recommend) heavier glass will help, but make it heavier. Try to custom order warp glass or unidirectional glass for at least one layer on the deck, and S-glass for the other and the bottom. There will be a slight increase in cost for the S, but if it's strength you want, you'll need to make some investment. Other construction tweaks can be the use of a thicker stringer (or more stringers), carbon fiber, or added structural reinforcement in the rails... just added cloth strips, usually 6oz or heavier. But you can add some strength just by getting a good glass job, done right... like the right ratio of resin to fiber, and laying up the two deck layers (of standard E-glass) at angles across the stringer.
In terms of design, you can go thicker, and that will add some strength. If you do, you can go with a more domed deck to get the same volume, AND added strength, because domed decks add structural stiffness and resistance to buckling. You can say the same thing about rail channels, bottom channels, and other lengthwise contours... they all add snap resistance. Another option is to go shorter (wider doesn't add much snap resistance) to create a shorter lever, and make up for it by going thicker.
All these changes will have costs... in terms of money, and in terms of performance. So you gotta pick your poison.
great info, there is only 1 local shaper here. he repairs it all but i think he only shapes poly, I might ask him to go with the added cloth on the rails and take it down to 6'0-6'1 and up it to 2 1/2.
i am looking at the coil site now. ive heard alot of people love them too. i am a light footed surfer to begin with, my only experience with eps/epoxy is a stretch f-4(6'1, 19.125, 2.5). never had issues with the flex out of my bottom turn, its fast, great on the waist to chest high stuff or bigger softer waves. but its digging the rails in on hollower drops and top turns, it tends to be a little floaty. otherwise id ride it more when it gets bigger and barreling. the coil looks to be carbon or something different, never ridden anything like that.
this board will be my everyday board chest to 2-3 ft overhead. i live on a punchy a-frame beach break so i need something that wont give me issues digging the rail in.