Splinters- ESPN Classic documentary on Papa New Guinea surfers
wow... did any of you see this over the weekend? ESPN Classic was showing it on repeat almost all of Saturday and Sunday evening. if you haven't seen it, definitely check it out. it's amazing how relatable the surfing culture is over there, to anyone of our home breaks. there's: the guys that take surfing so seriously (big fish little pond syndrome,) the guys and girls that just purely enjoy it for what it is, some use it as an escape, for some it's their "church," for others it's just a lifelong pursuit of chasing happiness. such a cool documentary.
one of the things that really hit me about it, was this one surfer's husband... he was a hard-ass who claimed that "for a man, the waves become their woman, and for a woman, the waves become your man." you know, this coming from a guy that's never entered the water, but he can easily see the effect that going surfing has on someone.
so anyways, i don't even know what i'm really saying... but if you haven't seen it, check it out if you've got the time.