Last saturday I paddled out for a dawn patrol sesh, the tide was up and it was about chest high, maybe a few head high peaks. I get in the water, start paddling and I see a guy take off on a nice looking shorebreak closeout probably 10 feet away from me and completely eat it into waist deep water. Where I was, the lip was just about to land on my back when I go for the duckdive. It didn't feel all that powerful until it rips the board out of my grip and I go over the falls into the sand next to the other guy. That got me really pissed off....I wonder if I'm doing something wrong?
Results 1 to 10 of 15
Thread: Duckdive Fails
Jul 5, 2013, 02:18 PM #2
I find that I can't get enough depth in waist or less water to successfully escape the force of the wave. I am not great at duck diving, and there are a lot of shallow breaks here.
Jul 5, 2013, 02:23 PM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
I was out in the same swell last Saturday and dove through a set wave, popped out the back and thought I was good, and got pulled back and dumped w/ the first blast of whitewater...not saying I have perfect technique, but I dove plenty of set waves no problem that day and got dumped by this one. Overall seemed like a weird swell, some waves just seemed punchier than the average windswell.
Ya, completely agree with seldom.
Jul 5, 2013, 02:51 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
The only thing i can think of is pushing harder on ur tail to pop the nose up a little more to kinda cut through the back
But sometimes all you can do is hold on for dear life....
Jul 5, 2013, 03:01 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
If it's got some size and it's breaking in waist deep water, not much else you can do imo
Jul 5, 2013, 10:25 PM #7
sometimes there is nothing you can do no matter how deep you go. water weighs just over 60 pounds per square foot. through the force of a wave containg a large number o gallons, and anything is possible.
I had an experience in the Mentawais surfing at Lance's Right. it was 8 to 10 foot faces and building and out of nowhere a set came through that was bigger than anything yet that morning. I paddled like hell towards ithe horizon. the wave doubled up causing a wave to start breaking on top of the wave. I pushed as hard as I could with both feet on the tail semi low-mid face. I penetrated pretty good and when I started coming up I thought I was good. then I just felt the wave sucking me up then back and I went over the falls in the lip. my board broke over my chest when I hit the bottom of the wave on my back. then I proceeded to get thrashed and pinned to the bottom. once the water finally eased i was able to push off the bottom. but before I could get to the surface another wave came and sent me for another violent thrashing. after the turbulence subsided enough I kinda got freaked and started swimming for the top but hit the bottom. then pushed off towards daylight. f**k man that was the heaviest s**t ive ever been through. I almost drowned. thank God at the time I was training like a fiend. otherwise I surely would have died. I was pretty much shook the rest of the trip.
so yeah sometimes there is nothing you can do.
Jul 6, 2013, 12:25 AM #8
Archy, Archy, Archy....I get it... you're trying to relate to us common folk.
But the OP is talking about the vagaries & mysteries of the ocean when head high at max. Other guys are giving their insights from the same swell that the original OP took on. And here you come, trotting out some hoary, dank, dusty tale from the dark side of 10 foot Asian bomberos that would hold down Laird.
There's literally no connection with what the others have posted.
Are you sensing a pattern here, sporty....? With the no connection thing...?
Jul 6, 2013, 12:59 AM #9
Jul 6, 2013, 04:42 AM #10