Last saturday I paddled out for a dawn patrol sesh, the tide was up and it was about chest high, maybe a few head high peaks. I get in the water, start paddling and I see a guy take off on a nice looking shorebreak closeout probably 10 feet away from me and completely eat it into waist deep water. Where I was, the lip was just about to land on my back when I go for the duckdive. It didn't feel all that powerful until it rips the board out of my grip and I go over the falls into the sand next to the other guy. That got me really pissed off....I wonder if I'm doing something wrong?