Ride the wave underwater. The energy under the wave is your friend.
Duckdives are cool... surf 'em.
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Thread: Duckdive Fails
Jul 6, 2013, 02:13 AM #11
10 steps to help your duck dive
First note that every part of the actual duckdive is a continuous series of motions. Each step should blend into the next.
Trust your instincts! If you're in the lineup and going to duck dive, make the decision quick. If you think you're going to get caught just inside on a rogue set, start paddling, no hesitating. Same goes for trying to catch it. The more you **** around and are indecisive, the more likely you're going to get your ass kicked by the ocean. Forward momentum helps!
Point yourself directly into the wave. Be perpendicular to it when it hits you, or it's much more likely to send you tumbling! Perpendicular to the white water, parallel with the direction of force. Even small deviations will make it harder to balance when you start to duck dive.
The wave is coming! Knees up on the board at the same time you extend your arms and push the nose down as deep as you can get it.
Rock you body just slightly forward of your center of gravity, pushing your board further under water and beginning to dive your head and body just before the wave hits you. The timing of this takes practice and depends on the speed of the wave. With practice, you'll be dropping your head and getting your body to scoot under right at the intersection of the green and white water.
PUSH down with your foot on the tail of the board as your body goes under water. Keep your arms extended, firm but not rigid.
Stay balanced! If you stay relaxed and don't freak out, you can stay balanced. The turbulence from the water is trying to fight its way in between you and your board. If you stay balanced and inline with the board, even if you didn't do such a good job with the dive, you'll loose less ground then you will if you loose the board and go through the washing machine. Once you're underwater, it's much more about balance than anything. The people who surf the ultra shallow reefs of the Mentawai Islands have to develop the technique of duck diving with their palms flat on the tops of their boards so they don't cut up their knuckles when they dive. It's about balance, not about gripping the rails as hard as you can.
When you're underwater, and you can feel the wave energy start to roll over your back, your leg should be totally extended from pushing down the back of the board. The nose of the board should start to point upward and you should be arching your back and pointing your head to the surface.
Start to pull the board in to your body. If done efficiently on a nice quality wave, you'll feel a suction start to shoot you toward the surface and out the back side of the wave. Again - this should all be one continuous fluid motion. Each step blends into the next.
As soon as you hit the surface and start to breath, get centered on your board and start paddling again!
Smile. Repeat as necessary (the duck dive - the smiles should always be there! )
Jul 6, 2013, 04:42 AM #13
Jul 6, 2013, 08:10 AM #14
What the matta with eatin $hit now and then? Keeps us humble and honest. Ever crowd surf? You're on top of the world then seconds later, concrete on top of your head. Dust yourself off and try again. Falling can be a liberating experience.
Next time you find yourself confused, fearful, pissed off or nervous, do what I do - start cackling maniacally. You'll instantly view the moment as a nothing to lose win-win situation and those around you will become powerless as they view you as an omnipotent mystic.
Jul 7, 2013, 12:58 AM #15