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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    York Maine
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    737
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    Well guys the boards heavy. Although I was spot on with my estimation it's 30 lbs even. Considering what's still to come off with shaping then the addition of some resin and a fin and some hardware I suspect the ready to ride weight should be close to 30. Yeah I know it's heavy but I think it will be well mannered because of the weight. No doubt very fast too. image.jpg

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Charleston
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    [QUOTE=Charles Taylor;177225]
    RS has proven to us that he has a "southern hemisphere" mindset and that's his own deal.
    /QUOTE]
    I am just curious to know more about this ? the reason being I have fallen partial to the Parallel profile method and it was his work that I studied via youtube which allowed me to reverse engineer his construction style. I am by no means biased to Parallel profile boards, so far I really enjoy tinkering with the concept tho.. I have grown up on factory mals and generally love them all except the bic of course... those things are suck.
    He who shall not be named, RS, NZSM, The Gnome and a few others are all names to reference the guy who is very adamant about the parallel profile and the price of his surfboards. Search the forum for his name and you'll see his antics.

    It all started on a dumbest surf product type thread when one of our west coasters made fun of a certain board builder then the board builder magically arrived on the forum defending his boards and defaming any other board that wasn't like his. It's an interesting read if you get the flu or something else happens that you can waste a large portion of your life reading internet babble.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Charleston
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    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Taylor View Post
    Well guys the boards heavy. Although I was spot on with my estimation it's 30 lbs even. Considering what's still to come off with shaping then the addition of some resin and a fin and some hardware I suspect the ready to ride weight should be close to 30. Yeah I know it's heavy but I think it will be well mannered because of the weight. No doubt very fast too. image.jpg
    Looking good, I'm impressed with how fast your build is going too. I really don't mind the weight of my HWS. It did take some getting used to initially but it's nice having the additional momentum.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Charleston ,sc
    Posts
    152
    I wouldn't bat an eye at 30 lbs. That will be a great weight. If you haven't surfed a wood board yet you will be pleased with what that weight delivers.

    I'm looking at your pic an I noticed the top looks like a grooved flooring wood? Red cedar? We don't have that available in South Carolina? What's the scoop? Am I way off?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    York Maine
    Posts
    737
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    5
    It's western red cedar that I milled into 5/16 thick by 4 inches. The groove you are seeing is a ship lap joint that I made with my bench top router machine. When the rails are shaped the ship lap joint will look unreal. It makes a crazy tiger claw pattern. I put it on a 12 ft sup I made last winter and it works real well

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Charleston ,sc
    Posts
    152
    I see.....that's very cool. You are really sparing no expense (in labor) on this one. Can't wait to see the pattern. I stuck with the usuall butt joints on mine.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Charleston ,sc
    Posts
    152
    As you cut the board into its plan shape what method of cutting are you using. I used an electric planer followed by a belt sander with great results.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    York Maine
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    Well to cut the blank into the plan shape I used a hand saw and went really slow. To shape the rails from this point I first need to fair the plan shape and I'm doing that with 60 grit long board sanding block and a belt sander combo. After the rails are faired ( as flat as I can get them) I'm going to consider some options with a hand held router using a 45degree chamfer bit on the too to begin the 80 rail profile leading off the deck and then I'm going to use a 1/4 " round over router bit on the bottom to begin the 20 rail profile. I'm going for an 80/20 down rail.

    All that stuff I just said is still just a concept tho. I'm gonna do the method on a piece of wood equal thickness as my board to see the results. I will post a picture of this to get your opinions about starting rails this way. If it works I will save a ton of time and theoretically let me achieve more accurate rail shape because the router bits never lie.

    Heres a picture of how I cut the plan shape image.jpgimage.jpg

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    York Maine
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    F the pics are sideways... I'm on my I phone. F me

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Charleston ,sc
    Posts
    152

    Tools

    image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

    I was able to go from pulling the blank off the rocker table to ready to shape rails in a day with the belt sander electric planner option. And that's on 10'5" of surfboard. I also cut the bevel into the rails with the same tool combo. I finished the rails with a orbital sander working from 40 to 60 to 80 grit pads. The final touch was by hand with 100 then 150 grit. Worked like a charm. But tools are a limiting factor. So is money and free time I guess. Such is why mine took 3 months form start to end.

    I'm sending my phone number in a pm. Call anytime you will never be a bother.