Good post. They NEED to be seen. Without the notoriety, the buoyancy that allows them to be "pro" is no longer there - the marketability and subsequent dollars spent by the followers. I can't be sure that every pro surfer would rather it be this way, and that's why LOD and the Z-Boys documentary are such great films. You realize that they appreciate in the end the fact that the fame and fortune wasn't what they ever really wanted. They just wanted to surf/skate, brah. Lots of parallels with that and Big Wednesday. The "mentor" (for lack of a better term) figure in the characters of Skip and Bear is a dynamic and critical one to all of this.
The camera isn't called "GoPro" for no reason. Seems like today everyone wants to be seen. Yesterday, in South Jersey, I surfed in so much fog I could barely see the beach. I knew there were at least 4 other guys in the break, but I couldn't see them. It was so liberating and relaxing, no pressure, no one watching.
I am not arguing that people in that time were not trying to make money or promote themselves. Alva pretty much invented self skate promotion. However, they were still losers fighting over a few scraps. A young grom now will have his parents right behind him traveling to all the comps because they know that there is at least a chance, slim to none, but a chance their kid could be the next Slater. Which is 1000 times (factor in inflation included) what someone like Alva ever made. Does not mean that Slater is not as passionate as Lopez or Lance Carson or whoever. It just means it is now a much larger business and much more opportunity. But the business is not the pro surfer, it is the image and the lifestyle. IMO.
Because if you step back and look at it, very few people surf, skate, kiteboard, sup, etc. We think so, because we want to surf alone or with a few buddies and everyone else are just losers and kooks. But in reality Pro Surfing is still a fringe sport that most kids and adults don't care or even know about. Ask the average kid to name a surfer or skater other then P.Rod or Slater, and they can't come up with one.
So aggro man. Why? I wasn't ripping you at all, in any way. Was saying how the over-crowding isn't great but not the end of existence for the dude who really does want all the peaks.
You're arguing world geography on one thread, the dope game on another. I ain't exactly been here for years, but you just got here and have more psi backing your agendas than Starchy could dream of.
Take a deep breath after the woman just kicked you to the curb. Stop the surf forum aggro posts. Stop internet stalking your ex-lady. There are many other fish in the sea. Open mouth, insert chill pill. Brah.
missed this one... maybe i mis-understood. lol. im married to an Italian... regardless if i want to or not, im not allowed to go anywhere! lol. escape is not possible!
In major areas it has, surfing sometimes isn't all about doing it because its just damn fun. Even though im pretty young, i feel like surfing back in the 70's was such a mystery, no computerized forecasts, spots were kept secret, board shapers were local while now you have nike making boards. Intentions were pure as there was no money in the sport
+1. Yes, now people are starting surfing in their 30s. These new 30 year old wannabe surfers and young groms will never understand how great it once was. I fell sorry for them. Catching a nice size swell by yourself in late spring doesn't happen anymore. They just check the forecasting sites and don't really understand buoy data at all.
I'm blaming the fall of surfing on the 30-something kook wanna-be-but-never-will-be's. Hands down. That abysmal, bottom-feeding strata of surfer society is definitely responsible for: no solo swells in late spring, any former sandbar that no longer cranks, water pollution, rising insurance premiums for municipal/state run breaks, and finally, the summer solstice.
15-20 years ago you could score sneaker swells when everyone thought it was flat.
You still can today. Many times i've committed to a 2hr drive each way with the hope that MY prediction was better than the forecasts I had seen, and more often than not I ended up scoring waves all by myself or with a small handful of folks who went anyways like me. I remember seeing 1.5ft @ 8 seconds and 5-10SSE winds. Most people would call that flat, I ended up getting 2-3ft peelers, and a smile on my face for the 2hr drive home...
contests and pro dudes aren't a big deal. they've been around forever. i'd say it was bound to grow no matter what. so much crap out there about how enlightening, spiritually full-filling, one with nature bs and great surfing is. why wouldn't more people want to surf?
the worst thing about surfing now-a-days is the internet. ironically because all the good content is online. mags are all airs and ads. my sh!ts just aren't the same. computers are hard to keep on your lap whilst sh!tting! and they get hot. although, lately i've been buying old surf mags on ebay for cheap. can't beat the color saturation in old mags. oh how time flys with a good ole surf mag...