Granted, the "waves" still completely sucked tonight but at least I was getting takeoffs when a wave would break with the onshores and in nine or ten rides in the hour, I didn't slip or fall off the board once. I felt my foot placement was even more diligent during the pop-up. I liked the overall feel a ton as well as the constant accountability for the board.
It was pretty crowded out there with all other LBs (I was on the retro fish) but I was definitely the safest with my board as it never left my feet, chest or hands the whole time. Speaking of responsibility, two of the riders out there nearly took my head off when I saw them drop in and stayed way out past the flats to let them get their ride. Even though the rides were weak, these guys still could've got down the line but they went towards the beach instead. These were slow rides where they had a long ass time to see where I was and where they were headed. One of the two guys came within a foot of my board and head as I stood there. I let him know that was not the way to go at all.
At any rate, no leash feels pure and liberating.
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Jul 13, 2013, 04:08 AM #17