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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by nynj View Post
    Lee- You're shaping it? Have you shaped an LB?
    My old man and I have shaped 10 or 12 shortboards over the years, but no. I'm looking forward to it.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    UGHHH! :(
    Posts
    314
    I like boards with moderate rocker, flat bottom to vee tail. 50/50 rails to hard rails on the hips to tail. Diamond or squash tail. Scoop under the nose is nice too. Basically a nose rider in front and a hplb in the back. All around.

  3. #13
    9-6, same outline and rocker template as a Walden Mega Magic, but not 4" thick, maybe 2-7/8 thick and with a slightly narrower rounded pin tail than the usual. see Chris Birch's Chauffeur model

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    My House
    Posts
    1,016
    Images
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by RIer View Post
    Pig influenced shapes work well in beach break. Wide point back of center helps you turn. You can skip the D fin and go for a more raked fin which will improve turning even more. Sort of a Magic Sam type shape (see below for example). These are maybe not ideal for noseriding but you can noseride them. My sense is that if you go the true noserider route you are going to sacrifice turn-ability to some degree. I have something similar to this but in a pintail and it turns and trims very well. Not really for hanging ten though. Attachment 8172
    Wow, beautiful board!

  5. #15
    9'6" single fin. At least a 16" tail. 24" wide. Pulled in nose for beach break bottom turns. 2 3/4" thick. Maybe 3". Toss in a step deck for the hell of it. Fin box for diversity. Don't forget your floaties.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    chincoteague, va
    Posts
    131
    Big hip toward the back, scoop some of the nose out. Those combined features will be the best middle ground parking on the nose as well as some kind of turning ability.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,502
    lee... a lot of guys around here are looking for the same thing... 60% noserider, 40% performance. What I've been doing with good results, and out of the Y series blanks, is a long blended nose concave 1/3 the length of the board, to flat, to rolled vee peaking at the leading edge of the fin, to flat behind the box. Wide point back, NO HARD EDGES. The rail goes from beveled up around the nose, to soft 70/40 through the middle, to thin and 50/50 in the tail. I also shape a little concave in the tail on the deck side... and old school local shaper here taught me that, and I think it works. Combine that with a wide, heavy wood tail block and you got a decent noserider, that can turn and respond in east coast beachies.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,437
    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    lee... a lot of guys around here are looking for the same thing... 60% noserider, 40% performance. What I've been doing with good results, and out of the Y series blanks, is a long blended nose concave 1/3 the length of the board, to flat, to rolled vee peaking at the leading edge of the fin, to flat behind the box. Wide point back, NO HARD EDGES. The rail goes from beveled up around the nose, to soft 70/40 through the middle, to thin and 50/50 in the tail. I also shape a little concave in the tail on the deck side... and old school local shaper here taught me that, and I think it works. Combine that with a wide, heavy wood tail block and you got a decent noserider, that can turn and respond in east coast beachies.
    I have only shaped a fish and a mini-long board, both epoxy, so I am a total novice. I also plan to shape me a longboard. Please explain how the tail block effects the ride, as well as the little concave in the tail on the deck side. My longboard shaper died, and I have one of his old ones I was going to use as a template. (My wife pounded holes in it - long story short).

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,502
    The tail block can add some weight at the end of a very long lever. I make mine out of darker, heavier wood, accented by thin strips of bright pine of varying widths. The tiny bit of added weight in the tail might only help keep the tail down marginally, but it sure doesn't hurt... it might make the difference between the tail popping out or not, so I'll take any advantage I can get. The little concave on the deck helps hold water over the tail, also helping to keep it down. But in order for it to work, you have to have water flowing over the rails and onto the deck. That means soft rails all the way, with no hard edges that will make water release from the rail, rather than wrap around onto the deck.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,437
    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    The tail block can add some weight at the end of a very long lever. I make mine out of darker, heavier wood, accented by thin strips of bright pine of varying widths. The tiny bit of added weight in the tail might only help keep the tail down marginally, but it sure doesn't hurt... it might make the difference between the tail popping out or not, so I'll take any advantage I can get. The little concave on the deck helps hold water over the tail, also helping to keep it down. But in order for it to work, you have to have water flowing over the rails and onto the deck. That means soft rails all the way, with no hard edges that will make water release from the rail, rather than wrap around onto the deck.
    "I see" sez the blind man. Thanks bro! How much tail rocker is too much? I like enough so I can turn it and do cutbacks and off the lips, and I prefer to turn than to noseride, but it would be awesome to be able to hang five. It seems to me you can't have both. But after reading your posts, I have been enlightened a bit, and now me thinks I can make a high performance longboard that I can occasionally get to the nose on without the tail popping out. But I always thought you needed hard rails in the back for turns and steep drops. No?