Lee- some good advice in here. Talking with Austin would be a great idea, I have always found him to be open and helpful - and he knows LBs
LB crew has given a good run down of rails and bottom, he has the knowledge- his description sounds a bit like the Jim Phillips 9'6" SWT2 I have - noserides great and able to turn. The thing I had to adjust to is the softer rails do not release like a tucked or hard rail, so trying to make speed like you do on a perf LB or SB doesn't work- different ride but fun.
PM me if you want to take a look @ it to, see how the concave/raiis are set up. Also with a single fin you want a good fin I found the Greenough 4A fin really works well - real popular in singles
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Thread: Ultimate east coast longboard
Lee why don't you just get a gnarlaroo fatty and put your picture of andy irons on it. Both sides so you can stare at it while sitting waaaay outside?
Jul 13, 2013, 11:17 PM #23Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
So the presumption here is that the boards are for short period swells?
Jul 13, 2013, 11:45 PM #24
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Carolina Beach
You should base it off of the Bing Elevator. Great beach break longboard good for turns and noseriding, I don't think you could go wrong with that shape.
Jul 14, 2013, 01:25 AM #25Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Singer Island
Jul 15, 2013, 11:24 AM #26
LBCrew, JTS, others... thank you! That is the feedback that I was looking for. We started on the board on saturday and she is coming along. Made Our planer sh*t the bed so that is today's new project. It's an old craftsman so I;m thinking about rebuilding her. The vibrations got so bad that I couldn't even hold on it to anymore. Anyone had any luck with rebuilding them? Are the cheap harbour freight model any good?
Mfitz solid advice man. Thanks.
Here's my set-up and the first cuts IMG_20130714_120520.jpg
Last edited by leethestud; Jul 15, 2013 at 01:39 PM.
Jul 15, 2013, 04:13 PM #27Junior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
Lee, looks like you are on the way!! Remember in lb's, less rocker = more glide. a 60/40 rail about 1 foot up from the tail will help produce tighter turns in lieu of the "sliding" feeling. Been using a 9.75" Greenough stage 6 fin in my 9-6 bing ss for awhile now, fin works well in all conditions thus far.
Jul 15, 2013, 04:20 PM #28
Jul 16, 2013, 03:18 PM #29
Ok I mowed through some more foam last night. Cut out the overall shape and started removing meat on from the top. I also glued up my tail block with scrap strips of walnut, cherry, and maple. The board is going to end up about 9'5 with the tail block on it. I traced the back 1/2 of my stewart hplb and just kind of winged it at a big spoon noseriding nose. For the most part I am taking LBCrew's advice on the bottom concave and vee, and am yet to make any big decisions on rails. They are currently square so sky's the limit.
Oh yeah, let me tell you, 3 hardwood stringers is kind of a biatch...
Attaching the tail block... do you dow into the foam or just glue and laminate it in place?
Is there special glue for foam to wood or will elmers shop glue do it?
LBCrew... I like your idea of a concave in the top side in the tail. I am considering adding a "feature" in the rail at about 1/3 or 1/4 up from the tail to encourage the water to flow over the tail. Ever gone about it that way?
Last edited by leethestud; Jul 16, 2013 at 03:33 PM.
Jul 16, 2013, 03:20 PM #30
Lee why'd you change your "avatar" (haha love that word)? I keep thinking you are Bubonicsphonics however he spells it