I have one word for you...no, make that two. Methamphetamine and Wavejet.
You won't need any of the above advice. You won't even need the meth, it would probably just make the experience more invigorating given that you won't really have accomplished anything. Of course, if you take a liking to the meth, you won't ever accomplish anything.
You'd better just find the sweet spot. Seriously, I was told by a few folks that almost any board you're riding, unless it has nose rocker like the shoes Hermie wears at the north pole workshop, you need to have the nose poking up out of the water about an inch or two. If it's barely out of the water you're obviously too far forward, and if you look like the Evel Knievel doing a wheelie then you both look like a dorkite and you are going to have waves roll right under you. Pick a spot on your board on or around the deck logo (most boards put them in view for a reason) and know where your big ol' schnoz needs to be relative to that spot every time you drop from your sitting position to go belly down and start digging. All the advice above about paddling deep and such is also spot on. It takes a lot of water in your board to really feel, unless you are John John Florence and you're riding a 5-10 in double overhead. My old longboard which I keep in the Outer Banks is probably 20% H2O at this point and I never miss a wave. My big wave mini gun is the same. I don't know about sucking on your board though. I'm not going there.
Last edited by tubesock; Jul 26, 2013 at 04:00 AM.