2001, back when I was living on Long Island between semesters...the memory is both good and bad. I don't remember what hurricane it was, but we had a monster 10+ ft swell, bigger than anything I'd ever surfed or seen in person. I got out of work at 5 PM, rushed to the beach and saw all these surfers just standing on shore. I thought, "what the hell is everyone staring at?!" I rushed into the water, only to struggle and get crushed over and over again trying to get out the back, all the while getting rushed down the shoreline by the monster current. I finally got out, caught a wave, popped up, fell on the drop and got ****ing rocked. Then I got the **** out. I was in way over my head. I put my tail between my legs and stayed on shore and with 90% of the other surfers who were there that day and just enjoyed watching the true talent that was out there riding. It was a humbling experience.
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Thread: Hurricane Memories (Good or Bad)
Jul 31, 2013, 06:47 PM #10Senior Member
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- Apr 2013