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Thread: more and more

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by still stoked View Post
    You made me think of Greg Noll in one of the old surf flicks when asked what he thought about the Gidget movie. "It just made me wanna f*#%ing puke".
    Is that from Bustin Down the Door? I know what you're talking about. If not that then Riding Giants.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Old Jersey
    Posts
    303
    Quote Originally Posted by eppeldaa View Post
    that dude with the "fear of paddling out" post reminded me

    more and more I meet people who think they have surfed or are now surfers because someone put them on a long board or took a lesson and they stood up for 2 seconds in the whitewash...

    and then I have to nod and be polite and they try to have a conversation about their surf experiences and I just wanna scream and run away and sometimes poke them in the eye like Moe does to Curly


    for example, there is no way that dude with the "fear of paddling out" post knows how to ride a decent size wave down the line and his post made me think of this new phenomenon.

    I mean doesn't it take at least 150 sessions to be able to actually look like you are surfing!!!?
    Um, do you surf because you like it or because you want to "look like your surfing"?

    Surfing is very special. If someone has been out twice then guess what they have surfed!!!!! Guess what? If someone wants to describe their surf experiences to you and have a conversation then that is a very powerful thing. Those people are proud of themselves and excited and every person has a right to be those things. Oh and they are probably just trying to impress you which to me is very humbling and I treat with respect but well......we are all different I suppose. Kook.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Sniffer View Post
    I remember my first real wave was on a cold November evening, probably 5 or 6 foot with offshore winds. It was my first large wave that was walled up and I worked it down the line. It felt amazing and I am always searching for that same feeling. So yes real surfing takes many sessions.
    Ya brah those milestone waves are obvi still fresh in my mind given that they were all fairly recent. First bigger drop into straight spin cycle was right around the big March nor'easter. No biz being on that wave or out that day. But I won't forget it. First steady pop-up was the next week in 1ft runners into buoyant whitewash and I repped out more of them with great stoke that day. First real successful drop was late March when I was out in the good early spring swell on a perf day and was working on nailing a drop on 4ft when one jacked another foot or so and good thing because I'd been out for 3 hours already that day and wasn't going in til I got it.

    First down the line was two weeks later at the start of those 3 weeks of non-stop spring swell and I'd just traded the 7-4 that got me going for a 6-6 fish. First wave attempted on that board ended up being a no-paddle 4ft wave with a clean face and with a smooth drop I pulled a 90 degree turn frontside (first front ever and didn't plan it) once in the trough and went about 40 yards DTL. It was probably late May or early June when I started to get back up the face at all after a bottom turn, and only a couple feet back up if that. Then we had 4-6 weeks of Lake Atlantic so I used that time to get out every morning and eve in the 1ft and work on foot placement and pop-up to shortboard lengths of 5-10. That lull in swell was good since I'd've not been able to nail many drop ins on medium to smaller surf on shortboards without lots of work at it.

    First real angled takeoff going backside with pumping while still higher in the face was 2 weeks ago in RI on a good 5-footer. The mush reps for pop-up were so helpful that I started doing this consistently. The following morning at another RI break my first ride of the day was a frontside angled stop that had even better pump and speed on a 5+ft height and I trimmed and carved and got 2/3 back up the wave then rode it off the shoulder. Last week was my first infantile snap action at the end of a similar ride. Next up is getting speed to go back up to the lip vertically and from there snapping and cutting back. Will take many reps and hours but really the only thing standing in my way of it is exposure to good, rideable waves that have any faces to get speed and get back up in.

    Sniffer didn't know what can of worms his post would open up but his line "It felt amazing and I am always searching for that same feeling" says it all and defines every sesh I head out for. I don't sleep often but I sleep even less now that I'm dying to get out there on that next sesh and next wave and get that feeling again by taking that next step. It's harder to find that high the better you get and the longer you're in it since competence becomes baseline and later excellence becomes baseline. The master then has to innovate and "change the game" in at least a minute sense if he wants to keep finding that high had from reaching new ground. I'd imagine that trips and travel and hitting world-famed spots can keep that going too.

    The kooks you see out there that are getting in your way and screwing with you chasing the high aren't in it for the high. They're in it to tell people they've "surfed before" whatever that means. Hey, if that validation gets them out of the lineup for a while then be happy that a form of waste management is in place. They'll never comprehend what you do in and about surfing because they don't know what the essence of anything is and they're trend-hopping, looking to dip their toe in every touristy experience in life with no behind the scenes look or real taste, sweet or bitter.

    I've had the feeling that Sniffer speaks of and I've had it in domains other than surfing. In some, I've experienced the "perfect wave" relative to that domain. I'll tell you this though: even diving in full-speed to anything else I've ever committed to, the staircase of highs to be achieved have not been as pure and all-encompassing as they are in surfing.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    maryland
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubonicphoniks View Post
    Um, do you surf because you like it or because you want to "look like your surfing"?

    Surfing is very special. If someone has been out twice then guess what they have surfed!!!!! Guess what? If someone wants to describe their surf experiences to you and have a conversation then that is a very powerful thing. Those people are proud of themselves and excited and every person has a right to be those things. Oh and they are probably just trying to impress you which to me is very humbling and I treat with respect but well......we are all different I suppose. Kook.
    You just defended an entire group and then called me kook
    U have to decide. Will u defend or offend people

    U do, however, make a good point
    When I first started I really liked discussing my experiences with real surfers and valued their input the most
    Thanks for reminding me

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    maryland
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Ya brah those milestone waves are obvi still fresh in my mind given that they were all fairly recent. First bigger drop into straight spin cycle was right around the big March nor'easter. No biz being on that wave or out that day. But I won't forget it. First steady pop-up was the next week in 1ft runners into buoyant whitewash and I repped out more of them with great stoke that day. First real successful drop was late March when I was out in the good early spring swell on a perf day and was working on nailing a drop on 4ft when one jacked another foot or so and good thing because I'd been out for 3 hours already that day and wasn't going in til I got it.

    First down the line was two weeks later at the start of those 3 weeks of non-stop spring swell and I'd just traded the 7-4 that got me going for a 6-6 fish. First wave attempted on that board ended up being a no-paddle 4ft wave with a clean face and with a smooth drop I pulled a 90 degree turn frontside (first front ever and didn't plan it) once in the trough and went about 40 yards DTL. It was probably late May or early June when I started to get back up the face at all after a bottom turn, and only a couple feet back up if that. Then we had 4-6 weeks of Lake Atlantic so I used that time to get out every morning and eve in the 1ft and work on foot placement and pop-up to shortboard lengths of 5-10. That lull in swell was good since I'd've not been able to nail many drop ins on medium to smaller surf on shortboards without lots of work at it.

    First real angled takeoff going backside with pumping while still higher in the face was 2 weeks ago in RI on a good 5-footer. The mush reps for pop-up were so helpful that I started doing this consistently. The following morning at another RI break my first ride of the day was a frontside angled stop that had even better pump and speed on a 5+ft height and I trimmed and carved and got 2/3 back up the wave then rode it off the shoulder. Last week was my first infantile snap action at the end of a similar ride. Next up is getting speed to go back up to the lip vertically and from there snapping and cutting back. Will take many reps and hours but really the only thing standing in my way of it is exposure to good, rideable waves that have any faces to get speed and get back up in.

    Sniffer didn't know what can of worms his post would open up but his line "It felt amazing and I am always searching for that same feeling" says it all and defines every sesh I head out for. I don't sleep often but I sleep even less now that I'm dying to get out there on that next sesh and next wave and get that feeling again by taking that next step. It's harder to find that high the better you get and the longer you're in it since competence becomes baseline and later excellence becomes baseline. The master then has to innovate and "change the game" in at least a minute sense if he wants to keep finding that high had from reaching new ground. I'd imagine that trips and travel and hitting world-famed spots can keep that going too.

    The kooks you see out there that are getting in your way and screwing with you chasing the high aren't in it for the high. They're in it to tell people they've "surfed before" whatever that means. Hey, if that validation gets them out of the lineup for a while then be happy that a form of waste management is in place. They'll never comprehend what you do in and about surfing because they don't know what the essence of anything is and they're trend-hopping, looking to dip their toe in every touristy experience in life with no behind the scenes look or real taste, sweet or bitter.

    I've had the feeling that Sniffer speaks of and I've had it in domains other than surfing. In some, I've experienced the "perfect wave" relative to that domain. I'll tell you this though: even diving in full-speed to anything else I've ever committed to, the staircase of highs to be achieved have not been as pure and all-encompassing as they are in surfing.
    So then
    This is what I gather from all posts
    Two kinds of beginners:
    Those who make it a lifestyle
    And
    Those who just wanna go home to the burbs and say they surfed

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by eppeldaa View Post
    Two kinds of beginners:
    Those who make it a lifestyle
    And
    Those who just wanna go home to the burbs and say they surfed
    I think that's an accurate assessment. And if I had to guess the latter group is the majority. In our current culture of instant gratification and online validation, it's real cool to say "yeah I went surfing" and then post it on facebook. Remember the turnover rate is high for those folks, and all it takes is one bigger day/bad experience to hang up the proverbial towel.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    3,694
    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    I think that's an accurate assessment. And if I had to guess the latter group is the majority. In our current culture of instant gratification and online validation, it's real cool to say "yeah I went surfing" and then post it on facebook. Remember the turnover rate is high for those folks, and all it takes is one bigger day/bad experience to hang up the proverbial towel.
    Pretty accurate, the thing is that when you decide to make it a lifestyle, it's a serious commitment, and many people just don't have that sort of commitment to things. It took me a long time to seriously commit to it, mainly because I didn't realize how much dedication it actually took to be worth a sh*t out there, and I was simply satisfied with being mediocre, riding a wave here and there. Once the bug bit me good and hard though, I didn't have much choice, It became a priority, and it changed my life... for the better.

  8. #18
    What's wrong with the beaches being populated with bad surfers? It makes you look awesome!

  9. #19
    I hate talking about surfing with "surfers". I would put the number of people who actually "surf" in the ocean city / delaware area at under 100, probably closer to 50. Yet any given night I can go hang out at a bar and have my wife's friends introduce me to 20 people who "surf" and want to talk to me about it. I have no hate, it's just not something I can really relate to them about.

  10. #20
    That post sounded ****ish, but I guess what I'm trying to say is there is a drastic difference between the people who come down for the summer, or paddle out once a month when it's convenient and they have off. And the group of 50ish other dumb bastards I see day after day chasing around swells and skipping work / pissing off the wife to go play in the water.