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Thread: more and more
Jul 30, 2013, 11:18 PM #11
Jul 30, 2013, 11:20 PM #12
Surfing is very special. If someone has been out twice then guess what they have surfed!!!!! Guess what? If someone wants to describe their surf experiences to you and have a conversation then that is a very powerful thing. Those people are proud of themselves and excited and every person has a right to be those things. Oh and they are probably just trying to impress you which to me is very humbling and I treat with respect but well......we are all different I suppose. Kook.
Jul 30, 2013, 11:52 PM #13
First down the line was two weeks later at the start of those 3 weeks of non-stop spring swell and I'd just traded the 7-4 that got me going for a 6-6 fish. First wave attempted on that board ended up being a no-paddle 4ft wave with a clean face and with a smooth drop I pulled a 90 degree turn frontside (first front ever and didn't plan it) once in the trough and went about 40 yards DTL. It was probably late May or early June when I started to get back up the face at all after a bottom turn, and only a couple feet back up if that. Then we had 4-6 weeks of Lake Atlantic so I used that time to get out every morning and eve in the 1ft and work on foot placement and pop-up to shortboard lengths of 5-10. That lull in swell was good since I'd've not been able to nail many drop ins on medium to smaller surf on shortboards without lots of work at it.
First real angled takeoff going backside with pumping while still higher in the face was 2 weeks ago in RI on a good 5-footer. The mush reps for pop-up were so helpful that I started doing this consistently. The following morning at another RI break my first ride of the day was a frontside angled stop that had even better pump and speed on a 5+ft height and I trimmed and carved and got 2/3 back up the wave then rode it off the shoulder. Last week was my first infantile snap action at the end of a similar ride. Next up is getting speed to go back up to the lip vertically and from there snapping and cutting back. Will take many reps and hours but really the only thing standing in my way of it is exposure to good, rideable waves that have any faces to get speed and get back up in.
Sniffer didn't know what can of worms his post would open up but his line "It felt amazing and I am always searching for that same feeling" says it all and defines every sesh I head out for. I don't sleep often but I sleep even less now that I'm dying to get out there on that next sesh and next wave and get that feeling again by taking that next step. It's harder to find that high the better you get and the longer you're in it since competence becomes baseline and later excellence becomes baseline. The master then has to innovate and "change the game" in at least a minute sense if he wants to keep finding that high had from reaching new ground. I'd imagine that trips and travel and hitting world-famed spots can keep that going too.
The kooks you see out there that are getting in your way and screwing with you chasing the high aren't in it for the high. They're in it to tell people they've "surfed before" whatever that means. Hey, if that validation gets them out of the lineup for a while then be happy that a form of waste management is in place. They'll never comprehend what you do in and about surfing because they don't know what the essence of anything is and they're trend-hopping, looking to dip their toe in every touristy experience in life with no behind the scenes look or real taste, sweet or bitter.
I've had the feeling that Sniffer speaks of and I've had it in domains other than surfing. In some, I've experienced the "perfect wave" relative to that domain. I'll tell you this though: even diving in full-speed to anything else I've ever committed to, the staircase of highs to be achieved have not been as pure and all-encompassing as they are in surfing.
U have to decide. Will u defend or offend people
U do, however, make a good point
When I first started I really liked discussing my experiences with real surfers and valued their input the most
Thanks for reminding me
Jul 31, 2013, 04:47 PM #16
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Jul 31, 2013, 04:52 PM #17
Jul 31, 2013, 05:14 PM #18Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
What's wrong with the beaches being populated with bad surfers? It makes you look awesome!
Jul 31, 2013, 05:33 PM #19
I hate talking about surfing with "surfers". I would put the number of people who actually "surf" in the ocean city / delaware area at under 100, probably closer to 50. Yet any given night I can go hang out at a bar and have my wife's friends introduce me to 20 people who "surf" and want to talk to me about it. I have no hate, it's just not something I can really relate to them about.
Jul 31, 2013, 05:37 PM #20
That post sounded ****ish, but I guess what I'm trying to say is there is a drastic difference between the people who come down for the summer, or paddle out once a month when it's convenient and they have off. And the group of 50ish other dumb bastards I see day after day chasing around swells and skipping work / pissing off the wife to go play in the water.