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Thread: more and more

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    MD - VA
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkegLegs View Post
    That post sounded ****ish, but I guess what I'm trying to say is there is a drastic difference between the people who come down for the summer, or paddle out once a month when it's convenient and they have off. And the group of 50ish other dumb bastards I see day after day chasing around swells and skipping work / pissing off the wife to go play in the water.
    It's impressive to see that you're non-judgmental & that you don't place yourself on a pedestal above others.

  2. #22
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    Jul 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    Is that from Bustin Down the Door? I know what you're talking about. If not that then Riding Giants.
    it was from Riding Giants - classic flick, no?

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Central FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by yankee View Post
    It's impressive to see that you're non-judgmental & that you don't place yourself on a pedestal above others.
    I get what he's saying, full timers don't really relate to part timers, and that's true. Most of those who aren't committed to the lifestyle, just don't get it. It's not that they are less of a person, they are just less of a surfer. I was once there, so I get it. He may sound like a d*ck about it, but when you have someone who hardly ever paddles out trying to talk to you as though they are an authority on the sport / lifestyle, it can be a bit annoying, as you know full well they have no clue, because you do it every day / week, and that type of experience will make you see things differently than the summertime pro or part timer.

    IDK, I don't judge anybody who wants to give it a try, because I hope others can get bit by the bug like I have and enjoy the same level of stoke / happiness that I receive from it; it's just those who POSE as something they are not just to try and RELATE to you and feel like they are on your wave length because they too have "surfed" is what gets me.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by hanna View Post
    it was from Riding Giants - classic flick, no?
    100%. I recorded it via on-demand a few months back and have watched it probably 20x since. Awesome flick. Give me your list, as I feel like I've seen most of the more celebrated ones but you'll have ones to suggest that I haven't seen. Not a documentary, but have you seen Drift? It's like a better and different Chasing Mavs, minus the incredibly smoking and resilient to aging Elizabeth Shue.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    I get what he's saying, full timers don't really relate to part timers, and that's true. Most of those who aren't committed to the lifestyle, just don't get it. It's not that they are less of a person, they are just less of a surfer.
    Not sure I can agree with that one. I doubt I will ever surf everyday because I cannot stand surfing <3ft waves. Does this make me less of a surfer? Perhaps in some eyes but I always thought it was about how hard you shred not about how much time you spend in the water.

  6. #26
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    Mar 2012
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    Central FL
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    3,152
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    100%. I recorded it via on-demand a few months back and have watched it probably 20x since. Awesome flick. Give me your list, as I feel like I've seen most of the more celebrated ones but you'll have ones to suggest that I haven't seen. Not a documentary, but have you seen Drift? It's like a better and different Chasing Mavs, minus the incredibly smoking and resilient to aging Elizabeth Shue.
    +1 Got it on BlueRay, one of fav's but still have Thicker Than Water at the top of my rotation right now, no matter how many times I watch it that vid gets me in the mood to paddle out every time, the music is on point, by far my favorite at this moment. Also, The Pursuit is a solid one to check out if you haven't already.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY5HnXGM5uU

  7. #27
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    Mar 2012
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    Central FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by M.R.gnar28 View Post
    Not sure I can agree with that one. I doubt I will ever surf everyday because I cannot stand surfing <3ft waves. Does this make me less of a surfer? Perhaps in some eyes but I always thought it was about how hard you shred not about how much time you spend in the water.
    To it's their own, but I always thought it was about being in the water as much as possible and being stoked, not "shredding hard", sure I want to do well out there, but "shredding hard" has never been a goal I aspire to. But if that's what surfing is to YOU, then that's you brotha, nobody is going to keep you from that. Surfing 1-3 foot waves brings me great happiness, not sure why it wouldn't others, but that's what it is to me.

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    I get what he's saying, full timers don't really relate to part timers, and that's true. Most of those who aren't committed to the lifestyle, just don't get it. It's not that they are less of a person, they are just less of a surfer. I was once there, so I get it. He may sound like a d*ck about it, but when you have someone who hardly ever paddles out trying to talk to you as though they are an authority on the sport / lifestyle, it can be a bit annoying, as you know full well they have no clue, because you do it every day / week, and that type of experience will make you see things differently than the summertime pro or part timer.

    IDK, I don't judge anybody who wants to give it a try, because I hope others can get bit by the bug like I have and enjoy the same level of stoke / happiness that I receive from it; it's just those who POSE as something they are not just to try and RELATE to you and feel like they are on your wave length because they too have "surfed" is what gets me.
    I'm sure you guys can add dozens more, but here's a few good preliminary schitt tests:
    1) Take him out for 3 consecutive days of dawn patrol and even better if it's in the rain. If he's not in time or "something came up", you got your answer.
    2) Take him out on a day that is at a break with only one way out back and has at least moderate size and power, with short period sets that have at least 10 waves in them. If he gives up before he gets out back at least once, you've got your answer.
    3) Ask him which of the following he prefers and why: glassed in rocker or removable rocker. If you get any answer at all other than a laugh, you've got your answer.
    4) Same as #3, but replace question asking which of the two is the greatest of all time: Laird Slater or Kelly Hanilton.
    5) Take him out to any break at any conditions but just be sure to bring a beater board you're not going to ride that day. Flip it over and start carefully waxing the underside of your board. Hand him a spare bar of wax and then keep getting some nice bumps all along your fins and concaves. If he does the same, you've got your answer.

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    To it's their own, but I always thought it was about being in the water as much as possible and being stoked, not "shredding hard", sure I want to do well out there, but "shredding hard" has never been a goal I aspire to. But if that's what surfing is to YOU, then that's you brotha, nobody is going to keep you from that. Surfing 1-3 foot waves brings me great happiness, not sure why it wouldn't others, but that's what it is to me.
    Fair enough. Wasn't trying to knock your style. My stoke really only results from the adrenaline charged waves where you're not quite sure if you're going to make the drop, section, turn, etc.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by hanna View Post
    it was from Riding Giants - classic flick, no?

    Riding Giants - yes
    Movie described - Ride the Wild Surf. That makes Noll sick. guys sitting in a "pond and then riding down the face of a 25 foot wave."