So I'm about 3/4 of the way through the latest "Special Issue" of Surfer Mag and I think it's one of the best issues I've read in a long time. Lots of stories from the all time greats but there is one article in particular that really hit home. The premise is that "One Ride Can (or cannot) Change Your Life". Now that's a bold claim, but after several of the stories I think it's definitely possible that one ride CAN change your life, be it for good or bad.
What do you think, can one ride change your life?
When I broke my 4 ribs and punctured air sacks in my lungs and was a trama patient .That's a ride I'll never forget.
Don't be sad it was belated brah, be thankful it arrived! Were you just a casual/occasional participant for the first couple years?
I surfed most every swell I could but my heart wasn't in it. If there was any size to it I would get super nervous beforehand and end up struggling for the most part. I didn't have the right mindset, equipment or conditioning so there would be days where I only caught one or two rides (or sometimes even none). Luckily I had friends who were stoked on surfing and forced me to get out there. Peer pressure can be a great motivator.
For sure the ride that hooked me for good was the first time I actually rode down the line. It felt like I was surfing for 45 minutes straight, but it was more like 10 seconds, which is great. When I stood up after dismounting I started laughing out loud. Not just a normal laugh, it was a laugh that you'd hear out of a child enduring a much feared tickle torture. Totally giddy.
Other than that, my other life changing ride involved and '87 Volvo wagon, a dead end road, an upperclasswoman, and piles of nervousness.
I think the first big wave changes your life. I spent far too many years surfing only up to 5-6 feet, afraid to take the drop on anything much bigger. First time you paddle on double overhead it takes the sport to a new level.