Been lurking here for quite a while. Not much of a message board poster, but this site seems to be pretty good and have good info with a relatively low number of d-bags, so what the hell, might as well say hello.
I'm a log rider mainly, 44yrs old, 6'1", 200lbs, decent shape...years of motox, mbiking, snowboarding, wakeboarding, etc. etc. have taken their toll though...back surgery, 3 knee ops (one rebuilt), dislocated shoulder, too many stitches and broken bones to list. But will be paddling out until the day I die or I just can't stand up anymore.
Started surfing late (Mid 30s), but was hooked the first time I actually stood up. Don't care about being seen, being cool, or anything else like that. Don't even bother getting in the lineup, I'm down the beach by myself or with friends, and perfectly happy with that. Just love to surf...small, mushy, I don't care...
Surfed OBX, Topsail, EI, Holden, and CB. CB is my main beach, mainly b/c we have good friends in Wilmington to stay with and its a quick trip. Plus a lot more mellow than WB. We usually have several trucks on the N end, and pretty much everyone surfs, including the lil ones.
I wouldn't say I'm that I'm any good, but I have fun and just want to progress into being the best surfer I can be before the wheels fall off. I've progressed past the whitewash and now am catching drops...sometimes. Miss more than I get but I understand its a process, and I'm in it for life, so as long as I'm not hitting a brick wall in my progress I'm good. And don't worry, you won't catch me dropping in on anyone, or sitting the shoulder, or sitting inside. I'm not that guy.
Proud to say my lil girl started when she was 6 and has already saved up and bought her own board. Now she's 8 and doesn't want my help at all, she just grabs it and goes. :-). She'll be a far better surfer than I could ever hope to be.
Much respect to surfers, surfing, the ocean, and everything in between, and to all of you who are kind enough to help guys like me out. I have a couple generations of ties to the Morehead and CB area, and have practically grown up in the ocean thanks to my parents. I always feel at home in the water.
Sorry for the novel, just figured better to throw it all out there rather than piecemeal it. Will be at CB this Sat and Sun, feel free to stop by and say hello if you want. Or not...live and let live is my motto. Blue 4 runner with a Clutch sticker/ tan canopy. Usually get out early and get a little down from the pier outside the lineup.