White, Californians pioneered most of them "breaks" of which you speak. How would calling the surf much smaller than it actually was keep haoles away? Yeah, Skippy from California won't check the surf because he heard some choke moke say it was two foot. Skippy won't actually check the waves, just listen to a Hawaiin undercall it. There ya go.
Shark Hunter, I hate to break this to you because you think you know your stuff. But you don't.
Results 41 to 46 of 46
Aug 18, 2013, 06:12 PM #42Banned
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
You're the same guy that had an argument with me over that wind doesn't need a long fetch to produce swell and that all waves are generated on the ec within 30 miles of shore.
History of surfing: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_surfing
Ever heard of Duke Kahanamoku
Yeah the picture would be of the guy bending forward at the bottom of the wave as he takes a bottom turn. Once he's riding across the wave, then you can easily the see the height of the wave and a 4 foot wave will never be overhead.(unless he's bending in half) Am I really having a debate over something this silly. Is there an ignore function on here? haha
Last edited by shark-hunter; Aug 18, 2013 at 06:16 PM.
Hawaiians under estimate wave size to make the Haole's feel inadequate... if they're 6ft is our 10ft then we must be riding 1-2 when we think its 6ft... and measuring from the back is ridiculous...I've never seen anybody ride that side... thats like measuring her cup size from the back... kinda useless...
Dude, this isn't southern California during a New Zealand swell. We just had a low push off last night. It was LOCALIZED, it wasn't 1000 miles off the coast. And it wasn't a huge storm system spawning hundreds of miles. Amazingly we had waves today. Jersey did anyways. Solid 2-3 ...clean little bowls peeling down the beach.
I didn't check your links because I know what I'm talking aboot. Wherever you get your wave producing knowledge, take with a grain of salt.
Hawaiins surfed long before Americans, but those dudes weren't even bothered claiming wave size. They were riding slow rolling two footers. You know all of them hotspots you see on the computer and in the magazines? Well, a Californian was the first to ride them. I'm not talking Waikikii, I'm talking Pipe, Waimea and all of those places. Yep, a Californian did it first. Though Hawaiins started "surfing" first, it was the Californians and Australians who made it was it is today.
Yo, what does "wind needs a long fetch to produce waves," even mean? I know, throwing that word "Fetch" around makes you sound knowledgeable. Define "long." And I bet you need sites like this to "predict" when your favorite RI beachy is going to produce, huh? Well, I don't.
You do know a surfer's "foot" isn't 12 inches, right?
Aug 19, 2013, 05:37 PM #45
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Hahahaha how did I miss all this!? All good PJB, I never take regionally directed comments personally, besides, I know you would never mean to offend me. I'm gonna step out of this one and let you guys get it figured out, but I will say that my understanding of the North Shore spots we've all dreamed of as kiddies(Pipe, Sunset, etc.) were pioneered by Californians, that crew that was living off pineappes and stuff and camping. As far as I know, Makaha was the biggest ridden by Hawaiians up to that point, then whitey came and looked to the NS.
*Due to flat spell induced tender feelings, I must include the disclaimer that no disrespect was intended towards Hawaii or it's people, California, whitey, the ocean, surfers, kneeboarders, bodyboarders, SUP's, African Americans, longboarders, or any other group that identifies itself through shared ethnicity of choice of board. China is exempt from this statement.
Last edited by seldom seen; Aug 19, 2013 at 07:07 PM. Reason: gramma
Aug 19, 2013, 06:12 PM #46Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Long Island
a one pound bird cannot carry a two pound coconut .... Maybe 2 swallo's carried it ..... run away ... run away ....