Thanks Swell. So in this case the dominant factor is the forecast for the movement is the timing of that front and the nature of the gradient it creates? If the weather model that you pull from has less stability on a forecast, this flows through as the fluctuating swell size?
in the absence of real weather makers like tropical or winter storms, is it this creation of gradients offshore between the high and low pressure systems that drive the east coast swell size/direction?
Pressure gradients create wind, wind creates waves, waves create swell.
Differential pressure in the air masses is what drives everything.
What creates the high and low pressure air masses you may ask...
Well, that is caused by the differential heating of the earth's atmosphere, which varies in both time and space due to tilt of the earth's axis and the rotation of the earth on its axis in relation to the sun.
In the winter we see the strongest storms, because the temperature gradients from the equatorial region to the poles are greatest during the cold months.
Last edited by Swellinfo; Aug 23, 2013 at 04:09 PM.