First to feet is not right, and its not your job to determine if someone has the right or wrong board to get down the line. Ive dropped in on people that I have seen blow wave after wave, barely getting to their feet before the straighten out in the flats. It was that or paddle around them everytime to get the peak which in my judgement would have been worse for them since they want to go straight anyway. That video turns my stomach, summer is wearing thin on me.