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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    New England
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    31
    Quote Originally Posted by leethestud View Post
    the reports use buoy data. 2-3 ft at short period is actually 2-3 feet. 2-3 ft swell hitting the islands at 18+ seconds is about head high. So yes, and no. That front of the wave vs back of the wave nonsense is just people trying to justify not knowing what they are talking about.
    Thanks for bringing up the wave period. The longer the period the bigger the wave. You should remember this when you are looking at forecasts.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
    Posts
    4,084
    I've never understood this debate, 6ft. is 6ft. no matter where you go in the world, it's still 6ft., I always laugh when I hear, 2ft Hawaiian. For now on i'm going to report wave heights as 6ft Florida, or whatever it happens to be at the time... but when I say Florida, you'll know exactly the size of the wave, cause 6ft Florida is different, it just is.

    Saying 2ft Hawaiian is just so hardcore man, I mean it's like "aaaah it's no big deal out here, just 2ft Hawaiian, nothing you'd be interested in, it's practically flat by our standards, I mean, I was barreled and all, but you wouldn't be interested in that, it's just another day of small weak waves as far as we're concerned."

    It's that "we're so cool that everything seems so lame" thing they got going on. Gimme a break

  3. #23
    thanks Jai, i'll keep that in mind.
    doesn't help bashing the locals before me for calling the surf what it is. it's what they called it and i just got used to it; not hard. perspective, my friends...
    on the other hand, not belittling or bashing the way you east coasters measure waves, really. i'm just trying to learn the local tradition in your neck of the woods.
    aloha

  4. #24
    To some its the size of the wave wall. Others its measured by the back of the wave. Knee to waist is knee to waist

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Your Mom's Vag
    Posts
    1,693
    Quote Originally Posted by shark-hunter View Post
    So teahpoo is 2 foot when it has a 25 foot face

    Just saying. Asinine way to measure a wave. Thank god the people around here don't give a surf report like that. How exactly can you see the back of a wave from the beach anyway? Dumbest **** I've ever heard.

    Well if you remeber physical science class then you would know waves (no matter what type) are measured off the back. Yes it is an odd way to measure surf and that is why many years ago most people switched to saying knee, waist, chest, etc as it gave a better view of the true height of the wave. The actuall data from buoys however still measures waves the way all scientist do, off the back. As for Chopes, well it's a slab wave and they defy all rules. Google a Surfline article from a couple years back about it and it will make more sense. Most waves break in water that is roughly half as deep as the wave is tall, well we all know Chopes and other slabs do not work like this and that is why they have no back to them. And as Lee said period of the swell makes a big difference too.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Turtle Island
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    I always thought scientific wave height measurement was from trough to crest on the face of the wave. But I mean why even bother calling wave size until it hits 23 ft?

  7. #27
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    Jul 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by seldom seen View Post
    I always thought scientific wave height measurement was from trough to crest on the face of the wave. But I mean why even bother calling wave size until it hits 23 ft?
    I was always taught from the trough (on the backside) to the top of the crest. But yes I agree unless we top 23 ft who cares!

  8. #28
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    Aug 2012
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    Anything under 23 doesn't even count anyway

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    South Shore, MA
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by rcarter View Post
    Well if you remeber physical science class then you would know waves (no matter what type) are measured off the back. Yes it is an odd way to measure surf and that is why many years ago most people switched to saying knee, waist, chest, etc as it gave a better view of the true height of the wave. The actuall data from buoys however still measures waves the way all scientist do, off the back. As for Chopes, well it's a slab wave and they defy all rules. Google a Surfline article from a couple years back about it and it will make more sense. Most waves break in water that is roughly half as deep as the wave is tall, well we all know Chopes and other slabs do not work like this and that is why they have no back to them. And as Lee said period of the swell makes a big difference too.
    I don't think it matters which side of a wave you would measure in deep water. The wave should be symmetrical as long as it isn't touching the ocean floor.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    milton delaware
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkstink View Post
    I don't think it matters which side of a wave you would measure in deep water. The wave should be symmetrical as long as it isn't touching the ocean floor.
    Yeah...buoys measure wave height from trough to crest. The trough behind one wave is in front of the next wave. Buoys aren't measuring backs or fronts of waves.

    Last edited by mitchell; Aug 26, 2013 at 09:25 PM.