Never seen the movie. Never should have made a movie aboot that Jay dude. There's no movie there. No story. No movie.
Y'all know how Jay Moriarity got famous, right? He had a spectacular wipe-out in front of the right cameras. Offshores held him up in the lip and pitched his board in the air and ...............then magazine covers, sponsorship and international fame. All from one wave.......a wipeout on one wave...........then eventually a movie. Life's funny ain't it?
I'd rather they do a movie on Randall...... you know,...Lost's mascot.
And interestingly enough, small waves aren't considered dangerous but in actuallity, factuallity small waves account for 98% of surf injuries. Big waves usually break in deep water so you really just have to be able to hold your breath. I hope you can because I can't.
Yeah, Pipe and Chopes are big and shallow but you shouldn't be out on those waves anyways. Stick to C Street. Not the one in Ventura, but Southern North Carolina. Don't go to Ventura. Nobody in the 805 likes you. 805-496-.......... anybody remember my old phone number circa 1984? Jeez, I don't even know if "496" is correct or was it 498 or 499?