I probably had the best possible introduction to surfing. I was in the San Diego area for work and I had an afternoon off. I was driving through Encinitas and I saw Hansen's Surf Shop and decided to stop in. I walked up to the counter with full-on douchy work attire (slacks, button-up shirt, loafers, etc.) and asked the very nice looking 40-ish blond woman if there was anyone who could take me out. Going into this trip I had decided I wanted to attempt surfing so it wasn't 100% spur of the moment, but close. Anyway, this awesome, quintessential surf shop chick called like 10 different local instructors before she found one willing to drop everything and get me in the water. She even gave me free chap stick when she saw how pale I was (it was May and I'm from New England). I spent the next 90 minutes on cloud nine riding perfect beginner waves at Swami's. From that day forward surfing has been a big part of my life.
As a thank-you to the wonderful blond woman at Hansen's I sent her boss (Mr. Hansen) a long email explaining my amazing experience. I went back the next evening and took her out for dinner. We were married the next year. We now have a little boy.
Ok ok, everything is true except I didn't take her to dinner, we didn't get married and didn't have a kid together. I actually never saw her again, but she visits me in my dreams from time to time. She's a true surfing goddess.
A few years back im surfing south side of Casino, late December. It wasn't supposed to clean up until after dark, but around 3 ish, peaky bombs start rolling in that could not be passed upon. So me and a friend paddle out while all the "real surfers" stand on the boardwalk making phone calls or crossing their arms like they're just waiting for their heat. After I get crushed on first ride ( almost always do in winter) two other guys come sprinting to the water and proceed to rip, taking bombs and calling me into waves I probably wouldn't have paddled for. I wound up seeing some of the best surfing I've ever seen from a lineup and in turn elevated my own game. I caught one of the best barrels of my life that day...so far.
We left feet numb, water logged and stoked wondering who the **** those guys were, up until then we had surfed the pier probably a dozen times and far between.
Couple years later I'm sitting down to watch Dark Fall and am like , that's them mother*****s from the pier that were calling me into bombs probably laughing when I got worked! But one or two wound up paying off and I never got the chance to thank em. Pollioni brothers. After watching the movie I realized some one from that movie is always out their killing it.
If that's not a cool story then my best friends mom is Ralph Macchios cousin....really!
Stories .... so it's my first time in Costa Rica surfing a more local break near Tamarindo and I'm surfing with this older guy (well older than me). He looks to be about 50ish and he is surfing with his teenage son and another teen. Maybe they were 16 or so. Anyway, he's on a log and it's HH with some OH sets on a nice June day. I realize that he's definitely not a Tico so I ask him where he's from. He say's he is from NY-Long Island and used to live about 2 towns from where I'm from. Small world. Not only that, he's a retired NY fireman and decided after 9/11 to move down here and retire with his wife and kids. States he surf's this break daily and just loves it. I didn't ask, but I can imagine he saw some pretty hororific **** on 9/11 and decided .... who needs this **** ... I'm moving to paradise to surf. Anyway .... small world ... you never know who ur gonna meet.
I am 20 minutes off the plane in Amsterdam and I stumble into the first cafe I can find. It's a "Bull dog", one of the bigger names, but what the heck do I know. So anyways, my lady and I are gluing our eyelids shut with the best smoke ever and this guy next to us at the bar falls out of his chair and onto the floor like a dead fish. So this crazy looking old guy comes up to him, puckers his lips, rips open a packet of sugar, pours it in the guy's mouth, and he hops up like it never happened. It was WILLIE MOTHER ****ING NELSON in that cafe with a classic stoner trick to save some tourist. The rest of the trip was absolutely "whatever" after that and I will tell that tale until I'm in a box, regardless of who believes it.
Also, February in the outer banks, at the motels break in Buxton. My buddy and I are checking the surf and I sh*t you not we saw a single penguin frolicking around in the shore break like it's the south f*cking pole or something. Nobody to this day has believed that story but my best friend and I know damn well what we say and it was a sure a **** one geographically confused penguin.
Last edited by leethestud; Sep 4, 2013 at 07:49 PM.
Oh man, Johnny Utah, that touches skin. A few years back, and then add a bunch more, I had a similiar episode. It was mid-March, still kind of chilly and I was at Casino for an ESA contest. It was sizeable and had plenty of morning sickness on it. So far the contest was a go, but everybody started complaining that it was too cold out, and the waves were still too chopped. So bowing to pressure they cancelled it.
So I went out. Had a wave break two feet in front of em and just worked me. I had no idea which way was "up," when I was turbulence free. Never had that happen before. But I scratch outside and the great Brian Kelly was out with some other dude. We were the only takers that morning. He was hootin' me in to waves, also. Pretty cool when one of the "stars" at that time, like your Pollioni dudes, does that.
STUDLEE: I believe you. I too have seen non-native species in areas that they don't exist. I saw, I think, a kangaroo in a park off of RT 30 in Egg Harbor City, NJ. It was early in the morning and I saw it out of the corner of my eye. I'm not positive but I think I did.
Awesome stories all around. Now I know this story doesn't have anything to do with meeting another surfer (or stoner) but....
My brother is studying abroad in Costa Rica (the lucky sh!t). He's not a surfer but I took him out with me once in waist high waves last year. He got the sh!t kicked out of him but loved it. I've been meaning to take him out again but our schedules don't seem to coincide.
So anyways he took a trip to Jaco this weekend. He tells me the waves were twice the size of anything he had ever seen here, like DOH, and clean. I'm taking the DOH claim with a grain of salt but that's beside the point. He paddles out on a rental and goes for the first wave that comes to him. He paddles, catches the wave, stands up and gets a ride, all on his first attempt! He surfed for another hour without a shirt then realized why you wear a rash guard. He threw a t-shirt on and surfed for another four hours.
He told me he's planning to take the hour bus ride every weekend for the rest of the semester. He’s hooked and I’m so pumped for him! Not that exciting of a story but I felt I had to share .