He had a shake which had the exact opposite amount of confidence and strength that his turns exhibit, I think I might have crushed one of his little, bird-like bones.
speaking of crushing hands, I was working at a Food Lion in Williamsburg in the mid 90's. Walking out to the truck, I came face to face with Bruce Hornsby (The next big rock star). I gave him accolades, and he held his hand out to be shaken. I mooshed it. I was expecting at least a little resistance, but it was like grabbing putty.
2006 or so, trip to Esterillos Costa Rica. evening sesh turns into a night at the bar on the beach. after bunch of 500 colones Imperials and bubbas tacos, i go to my boy, hey do we know that dude over there? he looks familiar. my boy says no have another imperial dude, we are in a tiny bar on the beach CR. few imperials later i am certain i know this dude. finally i blurt out to my boys, thats Hobie from Baywatch!! they are like your crazy, no its not. i tell them i'll go ask and if i'm right they are buying me beers for the rest of the night. they agree. i go over on a mission (bar had like 15 people total) and this bigger dude gets right in my way and is like thats close enough. haha seriously. i was like is that..you know..hes like yeah thats him and he does not really want to be bothered. he was skinny as a rail and drinking gatorade. i assumed he was detoxing or straight from rehab. saw him in the lineup the next day get a few.
A pal of mine dosed his neices and nephews with pot browniesat a family backyard BBQ by accident. Good times. The kids were kind of bugging out in front of an episode of Barney and Friends. Some of them just napped.
When I was 14 my Uncle and some of his older surf buddies let me tag along on a surf trip to Peru. My uncle lived in California for ten years and surfed all over the world so he had a local connection in Lima, the guys son sorta guided us up and down the coast for two weeks. last few nights were staying in Lima and the guys says his daughter just got back into town and she just landed a sponsorship with Roxy on the world tour. I was 14 when I met and surfed with Sofia Mulanovich. She probably doesn't remember me, her brother might, but her dad is still in touch with my uncle. He told us a funny story about one of his friends that was shooting shorebirds down there and telling everyone it was duck.
Recently went to Nicaragua and scored! Waves were insanely good the whole trip!
Stayed in Popoyo with a friend just down the hill from "Two Brothers".
Two of the days Outer Reef was no joke, exactly like Pipeline! There were photographers and everyone came out of the woodwork to line the cliffs above and watch the action. After an hour of watching we paddled out. I was on a 5'10" and paddled out and sat just outside the peak. Anybody wanting a ride was getting towed in and wearing helmets! Needless to say, all I could do was watch! Was incredible though! Even though I couldn't surf those waves it was so worth just sitting up close and watching. Never, ever have seen anything remotely close to those waves! Gotta hand it to those guys towing in, they were scoring perfect 25'+, in barrels you could have drove a school bus through! JJ and friends know that break like the back of their hand!
You really have to know your $hit if you're gonna get whipped into one of those especially with the nearest hospital an hour or so away! The year before I had left a board bag with my friend who lives there and they ended up using it for a body bag for some poor local that didn't make it! Didn't ask for it back!