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Thread: big waves?
Sep 7, 2013, 01:54 PM #71Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
Sep 7, 2013, 02:05 PM #72
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Punching Latex Dummys in Barns
And me and SUP don't need a room. We 're children of nature and camp on the beach, and pick seashellls by the seashore.
Travy, go study the sciences of de weather for two years. Don't surf just study. Then you'll be that much more prepared to surf after the two years. Instead of surfing you can spend the day debating if the current swell's period is long enough to create a suitable wave according to the botton conditions of your immediate area..........Opps in the last hour, your favorite boy or buoy or buouy just reported a loss of a foot in the swell. Ok, back to the figures and caculations.....
Sep 7, 2013, 02:12 PM #74Senior Member
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- Jul 2010
People with jobs aren't real surfers.........
They aren't dedicated.
Corky Carrol never worked.
Hey, get yourself a gig doing Miller Lite commercials.
Less filling? or Tastes Great?
What's your take?
Actually those who are gainfully employed, just go when you are off. What's the problem? If there's waves and you aren't working then you go. Seems pretty simple to me..........watching weather models a week in advance isn't going to garauntee anything. You don't take off in advance. If you are going to ditch work, you make sure it's worth it. Even solid predictions for the next morning are wrong many times. Yeah, it's solid and the winds are NW but it's just not really doing it. It happens.
God we would never have these problems if Erock helped me form MarijuanaLand, an island nation with me, Paddington Jetty Bear, as your friendly dictator. Erock, Minister of Carpentry and Plants, of course........
Sep 7, 2013, 03:07 PM #76Banned
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- Jul 2013
Sep 7, 2013, 03:54 PM #77
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Hahahaha great discussion boys!!! Thanks for the morning laughs!
Sep 7, 2013, 04:02 PM #79
easily and be a potential hazard. When the first good 'cane swells come, take some nice duck-dives
to get your lungs hyperventilating a little. You can easily double your ability to hold your breath as I
guess hyperventilating stuffs more oxygen into the nooks and crannies of your body somehow - how I don't
know. So even at the beginning of your sessions, do some hyperventilating. A 2-wave hold-down COULD
keep you down longer than 30 seconds (most older people get a little nervous at this point, but younger
guys probably would NOT get very nervous, perhaps a little). But 30 seconds is NOT pleasant for anyone.
But a younger guy who hyperventilates and doesn't swallow water can handle this no problem. But
what if your mouth was open and you swallowed water (which can happen even on a 2-foot wave). Keep
your mouth closed.
2) Inspect your equipment - like your fins - make sure they are not broken or loose as this can affect
your bottom-turning even if only slightly worse than usual.
3) Keep in mind that longer-period hurricane swells are more likely to reform and keep spilling and can
easily have enough power to keep throwing you back towards the shallower water. This can be
good or bad. If there are rips coming off of a wall or something, the effect of even a small 2-foot wave
can be amplified by the rip current and you can be slammed down by a now huge rip-sucking wave into the sand. Be careful of where you are surfing. I've seen it all at the basic beach-breaks of New England. I'm not
as used to the reefs.
Just before you paddle out on a big day:
1) Remind the principal of your school to let everyone out early, if it's really big, I think
school should just be cancelled.
2) Hyperventilate for a little while - start this in the classroom before school lets out.
3) Check your equipment - your surfboard (hopefully it's a pintail gun, after all, this is basically
your only chance to use it, but round-tails are easier so don't take the pintail out unless your arms
are as big as mine or you'll miss the wave)
4) Make sure you have the right temperature wax for your board. If necessary, leave it out in the sun, and
wipe it off, and then rewax it.
Long before you go out on a big day:
1) Run or
3) Climb hills or ride a bike to get in shape
4) Climb stairs
5) Lift weights - this increases not just muscle, but also your lung capacity
6) Alert the school to the upcoming tropical system a week ahead of time
Let's just say that those clean hurricane swell sets with little in between are a hazard if you're out of shape.
Running during flat spells is a great way to increase lung capacity. Swimming is almost as good, for some
people, it's even better (like if you kick a lot).
I've been under for a while, and I'm not proud of it!
All I can say is your from the Carolinas - you've probably seen plenty of giant surf!
Beware of jetties and semi-points that can tend to have rips outwards that amplify swell or refract it by funneling it. An example - Jersey has jetty breaks like 7th Street in Ocean City where the final drop into the wave can get pretty gnarly - enough for at least a double-thrashing if you get pitched off your board. You may need more gun under you sometimes. There are even breaks that are marked as a hazard in Jersey. I almost broke my tibia on a wave at 7th Street - my leg bent like a boomerang but it snapped back and I was just sore for the next year.
Beware of shallow spots just inside the point - there tends to be a shallow spot at whatever tide happens to be the troublesome tide at that point.
Beware of washing machines - areas with strong rips out of deep water ending in shallow. Even Newport 2nd Beach in Newport, RI, has one of these as you go to get out of the water - it can be troublesome under the wrong tide/swell/wind conditions if you don't just surf your way smoothly to the beach to get out of the water.
Last edited by ScorchieLeWave; Sep 9, 2013 at 12:51 PM.