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Thread: big waves?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Monmouth Beach, NJ
    Posts
    2,471
    I'd say it's really not about how long you get held down for... more about being able to paddle out with confidence, knowing you'll likely take a few set waves on the head, and more than once. I know people will balk at this, but I've never been held down for more than about 15 seconds on the East coast. Seems like longer, but it's not. So how long you can hold your breath for isn't the real issue you're up against. What matters way more is... did you have the mental clarity to (1) get that last big breath before you go down, and (2) can you maintain that inner calm and not panic when you're in that panic situation, getting worked. Without those two things, how long you can hold your breath for makes no difference whatsoever.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Paddington Jetty Bear View Post
    But youse guys in your beloved Rhode Island rule the coast when it comes to hurricane swells. You guys get it bigger and youse guys get it better. And the rest of you, leave them be. If you don't frequent Rhode Island don't show up there during hurricane swells. Let them have it to themselves.
    How many summah charges denotes privilege to charge Rhodey canes? I punched my ticket a handful of times this summer at 1st, 2nd, LC and PJ. Plus, logged several hours during the night ripping pace on the Carver while I waited for DP to start. Does that count at all? Do I get to charge one of these chronic tropical depressions? If not, am I at least afforded the right to beat up a LBer in the parking lot at Lighthouse? Don't worry, I'd make sure it wasn't a nose rider and definitely the shoulder-snaking straight off adolf type.

    If I'm denied admission I'll just camp out in a freshman girl's dorm room at Salve. Once I smack those lips at DP I'll head out on the rocks of Ruggles in a gorilla suit with a gnarlaroo. You know I can't be caged.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    I'd say it's really not about how long you get held down for... more about being able to paddle out with confidence, knowing you'll likely take a few set waves on the head, and more than once. I know people will balk at this, but I've never been held down for more than about 15 seconds on the East coast. Seems like longer, but it's not. So how long you can hold your breath for isn't the real issue you're up against. What matters way more is... did you have the mental clarity to (1) get that last big breath before you go down, and (2) can you maintain that inner calm and not panic when you're in that panic situation, getting worked. Without those two things, how long you can hold your breath for makes no difference whatsoever.
    You need to post at least 1/3 as much as I do, LBcrew. Either that or I need to post 1/10 of your frequency. Likely the latter!

    Very accurate and great points. I saw that in El Salvs last week. My conditioning is very high as is my paddling and most certainly my ability to withstand a thrashing; Lord knows that's the bulk of any sesh I have in stronger waves. I usually do stay relaxed in spin cycle and go along for the ride and actually enjoy it. One of the first botched rides of my trip though, I got torpedoed (not Fitzpedoed) underwater upside down and all around for the length of a football field or so and it was probably in the 15 second range tops, nothing I hadn't got thrown around in before. But it being the first real long period jacked up Pacific wave I'd been taken to school on, I lightly tapped the panic button and it flat out exhausted me for the next 3 minutes or so. World of a difference with a calm head versus not. Our physiology does much better in composure.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
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    4,284
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    You need to post at least 1/3 as much as I do, LBcrew. Either that or I need to post 1/10 of your frequency. Likely the latter!

    Very accurate and great points. I saw that in El Salvs last week. My conditioning is very high as is my paddling and most certainly my ability to withstand a thrashing; Lord knows that's the bulk of any sesh I have in stronger waves. I usually do stay relaxed in spin cycle and go along for the ride and actually enjoy it. One of the first botched rides of my trip though, I got torpedoed (not Fitzpedoed) underwater upside down and all around for the length of a football field or so and it was probably in the 15 second range tops, nothing I hadn't got thrown around in before. But it being the first real long period jacked up Pacific wave I'd been taken to school on, I lightly tapped the panic button and it flat out exhausted me for the next 3 minutes or so. World of a difference with a calm head versus not. Our physiology does much better in composure.
    Just keep telling your self "this aint sh*t" as you calmly make your way to the surface, I make sure to throw up gang signs while saying this to myself to feel extra hard too

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,337
    The thing to worry about on a larger day is when you paddle out through a big , long set with multiple duck dives, then paddle against the current to get to the peak, and then another big set comes. At this point, if you go, and you fall and get worked, you are already winded before the takeoff. It is better to let the set go, get back into position, get your breath, then on the next set go on the third or fourth wave, so if you get held down the rest of the set doesn't unload on you, or you get run over by surfers on the wave after yours.

    I also highly recommend burning a fattie ( save half for when you get out) to give you the mental clarity and relaxed state of mind to commune with the ocean when she becomes unruly. Just ragdoll on those hold downs, and look for columns of clear water to swim back up instead of fighting the foam.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    Just keep telling your self "this aint sh*t" as you calmly make your way to the surface, I make sure to throw up gang signs while saying this to myself to feel extra hard too
    I typically go through the motions of the turbulent ocean reciting lyrics from the B-side hits of Marky Mark's groundbreaking debut album. Happened to already be in Spanish speaking/thinking mode and couldn't conjugate the verbs fast enough. Hence, the momentary panic.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
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    4,284
    Quote Originally Posted by EmassSpicoli View Post
    I typically go through the motions of the turbulent ocean reciting lyrics from the B-side hits of Marky Mark's groundbreaking debut album. Happened to already be in Spanish speaking/thinking mode and couldn't conjugate the verbs fast enough. Hence, the momentary panic.
    Hell yeah, also doing the roger rabbit followed by the sprinkler will undoubtedly keep you in a zen like state while finding your way up from the abyss

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    in my head
    Posts
    17
    I think one of the biggest problems with getting worked in big surf is losing the air in your lungs causing you to lose your buoyancy and not know which way is up. If I'm getting caught inside or can feel myself losing it on the wave, I pinch my nose to try and not lose air in the initial impact. I know you don't always have time to do that, but if you can it makes it a lot easier to get to the surface.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
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    1,337
    Oh I almost forgot, packing a couple of love handles gives you the required buoyancy to float back to the top rather quickly. And yo DawnPatrolSUP, way to go rockin the sprinkler. LMAO

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Central FL
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    4,284
    Quote Originally Posted by sisurfdogg View Post
    Oh I almost forgot, packing a couple of love handles gives you the required buoyancy to float back to the top rather quickly. And yo DawnPatrolSUP, way to go rockin the sprinkler. LMAO
    It goes something like this...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExigcDtXWzQ