I blow bubbles and watch which way they float so I know which way is up or tug on my leash and climg it if need be. I must say we have given a lot of advice considering ther ain't no 10 ft sets any where near the east coast in the near future.
"Stay in there like swimwear" HAHAHA! I think this would be an awesome and highly aesthetic way to shuffle up and down on a longboard. Maybe Joel Tudor can try it out next world finals. Gettin jiggity. God we need some f***ing waves!!!!
Hey Zues Christomosas........Lee and Spicoli........
I said the gosh darn same thing two pages ago(mental...mental..mental), and I get no friggin accolades. Aww gee whiz...........You gusy are so nice to Za Gaffer and LBCrew and soooo mean to me. Why they mean? Why they mean?
Where's my friggin due? Oh, just because I'm an arsehole what I say is taken with ten grains of salt or completely ignored.
This is unfair. This is a travesty of justice and morality in this country. I'm totally sour pussed right now. I feel like kicking somebody. If any of youse get the Philly news stations, tune in tonight at 11:00 pm because there's gonna be some friggin drama......some gosh dang friggin drama.
" The suspect said he acted out because he was ignored on SWELLINFO.COM.........the premier surf predicting website."
Oh, I'm only joking around aboot all of this so calm the F down.........
Everybody's got to chill and stop trying to anal-lyze everything.
Seriously. This is good advice. I tend to stand around on the dune on real big days spending way too much time looking at the paddle out rip currents, watching what happens to others trying to paddle out, thinking that "timing the sets" is something useful to do.
All it does is kill your stoke, ramp up your apprehension level, and generally make it a lot more likely that if you do make it out your gonna have so much sh*t rattling around in your mind's eye youre gonna overthink everything. Believe me...Guilty as charged.