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Thread: big waves?

  1. #61
    Dear original poster,

    Please don't paddle out in big surf. I don't want you to die.

    Sincerely,
    Kahuna Kai

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by macgregorsmith View Post
    I also highly recommend burning a fattie ( save half for when you get out) to give you the mental clarity and relaxed state of mind to commune with the ocean when she becomes unruly. Just ragdoll on those hold downs, and look for columns of clear water to swim back up instead of fighting the foam.
    Some of you guys just make me so happy! On second thought SISurfdog, bring two fatties. Then you can share with me before and after.. But don't worry, I usually always have the goods too. If your not getting high before you hit the water, your not doing it right. Sucks when I cant get high before dawn patrols because I gotta work. Didn't used to be my rule, but I have a job I cannot nap at now. Hit me up if you wanna buy a new limoAttachment 8764[/QUOTE]

    Awesome limo bro! Next time I'm in Rye I'd love to check it out. In the meantime, watch out for those Seabrook girls! I hear they paddle real good with their webbed feet.

  3. My buddy that lives in PR surfed solid 25ft Tres more than once this year and his longest hold down was about 9-10 seconds

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by surfthewall11 View Post
    My buddy that lives in PR surfed solid 25ft Tres more than once this year and his longest hold down was about 9-10 seconds
    When was it ever 25ft this year? I've been there twice in the last 11 months and it never got bigger than 15ft at best.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcarter View Post
    Did you toke up on your paddle out to Jaws, Mavs, Chopes or Shipstern? I bet Larid Hamilton, Dave Kalama and the Maui crew that helped found super big wave surfing would disagree with you. As would Eddie and most of the north shore watermen who train or trained in Eddies case constantly for big surf.
    I never surfed jaws,mavs,or chopes,bluff...u do know theres plenty of other bigwave surfers than the maui crew.i cant speak much of laird,hes the slater of big waves.obviously u don't know about black butch von artsdalen.he was eddies right hand man and a fearsome drunk.yesterdays generation is very different than todays generation.i don't support drug use by the way,im just saying u don't have to look like a football player or brad pitt.theres skinny bigwave surfers,chubby bigwave surfers,clean bigwave surfers,addict big wave surfers.the first time the santa cruz boys paddled mavs,they each dropped a tab of acid.christian fletcher beat tom curren at 2nd reef pipe on acid.peter davi died paddling in from trying to paddle 70ft ghost trees with a toxicology report of meth in his blood.you have to be passionate about bigwave surfing,not just trying to get a good shot on a monster wave so u can get sponsored.garret McNamara used to be a heavy weight pothead.brock little said hed take off on waves that could kill him because he didn't want to look like a puss.your probably too young to remember Donnie Solomon and todd cheese chesser.both well qualified waterman bigwave surfers died In heavy conditions.the day Donnie died,he caught the best waves of his life.kelly,dorian,ross,and Donnie went to paddle for a wave in to the beach,everyone made it but Donnie.he was out of position when the biggest set of the day closed out the bay and Donnie went azzbackwards over the falls on a 50footer.point is u want to surf bigwaves,u have to be ready to die.doesnt matter if your laird or greg long,everyone gets held down and u can push the off switch when a 50ft face is breaking infront of you.

  6. #66
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    Donnie Solomon died a year to the day after Mark Foo died at Mavericks. Eddie lost his life in Mother O as well. If your time comes, it comes. Better on a big wave than on I-95. But everyone should relax. We won't have to deal with all that here on the Atlantic. Tow ins should be banned on this coast. If you have to ask permission on this forum to paddle out on 10 foot waves ( I am guessing the original poster meant 10 foot faces ) you should learn to surf first.

    The adrenaline rush from making a big drop (3+ seconds) is something that has to be earned. It doesn't have to be 50 foot. I have gotten the same feeling on 10 -15 + foot faces when you have to drive down the wave and make the first section. I have also gotten great stoke from slamming the lip on a nice 4 foot bowl and doing a cutback into the pit. I have also gotten a total sensory moment (or two or three...) of bliss on the nose of my longboard on thigh high peelers, gliding, looking at coral heads fly by in front of me and zoom underneath, as if I was flying inches over the water.

    If I was a GI Joe action figure, the waves we are having here now would be not near epic, but quite fun. It is all a matter of perspective. It will be a bright shiny day indeed if I have to contemplate if I need to plug my Sonny G fins into my old yellow shortboard. It has lizard s**t and dust on it as you read this sad cry for waves.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by DawnPatrolSUP View Post
    Hey Mr. Serious, I think you missed his point about the swell period not mattering, I'm pretty sure he understands what the swell period does, what i believe he meant was: Stop trying to over analyze the situation and just paddle out. Too many people get paralysis of analysis and psyche themselves out.
    Ahh man, SUP, I owe you. I wasn't in the mood to explain myself. I just had quite the day. Man, don't lose your liscenses kids. Public transportation sucks. I mean really sucks. I had a job interview in Camden today, and MY GOD, I was THIS CLOSE to becoming a republican.....

    I never seen such a collection of people in my life.....and I've been around the block a few times. If YOU can't take care of yourself, Please, Please don't have 6 kids. Don't tell people around you, on the bus, your whole life story. Don't breathe on me. Stop singing outloud to no one in particular.

    Props to the bike guy who beat the dude down, " WHO TOUCHED HIS BIKE," right infront of the Camden County Prosecutor's Office, City Hall and The Superior Court House. Props to all of the cops and the federal dudes, from the nearby Federal Court House, for sitting there watching it all go down. Props to the aggressor who, after the ordeal, peadled around in a circle for two minutes screaming about white people coming into Camden and what he's going to do to y'all. That was good stuff right there...

    Worrying aboot "period" on the east coast with its endless supply of short period windswells is pointless.

    IT IS WHAT IT IS.........

    Travy by next Friday send us a detailed report of the "bottom conditions" of your spot. Be specific. Oh Travy a differential of two seconds means that much, huh? Man, just go to the beach and surf whatever is there. Stop trying to be Nostradamus de Surf.

    On any given day........It is what it is..........

    And thanks again SUP for explaining what I meant. Like, back in the 80's I never even knew aboot Period. And guess what? It had absolutely no effect on my surfing life..........because........ IT IS WHAT IT IS..........No amount of speculation will ever change that. I know what a certain low is going to throw at us with out even caring what the period is.

  8. #68
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    Anytime dude, all this talk of periods is starting to sound like a bunch of women talking in a public bathroom

  9. #69
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    heres a little video thatll put you in da mood!best scene 2:55
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNhPWTRri-o

  10. #70
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    The Periods on the East Coast - sounds like a Hallmark Channel movie to me. GROUNDBREAKING UPDATE #4 - we don't hardly ever ever get long period swells on the East coast, and if it does happen everything closes out. Like PJB sayz, if you see the swirl off the coast, just go paddle out. And I am not going to go into any detail about my bottom conditions. Not on this forum.