3 foot with occasional 4 foot sets and the very rare 5 foot sets and glass here, south winds made it a bit rough yesterday (which was bigger), but got out for 3 and a half hours this morning and my god the sh!t eating grin on my face never went away.
And just when I was starting to be convinced the ocean was broken..
Yeah. It was way fun today south of Belmar. Im trying to fly down the line and get a turn in and dudes are busting airs and rodeo flips getting ready for The contest. I felt old. But I had fun...all that matters. But it was easily waist to chest with an occasional bomb here and there.
Ooh yeah, that ain't fun...looks like I made the right call going to the spot I went to.
I was stoked to be able to go and surf yesterday and today for 4 hours each....only caught 5 waves (4 yesterday, 1 today) before I got out of the water and just chilled on the beach. Too many of those stinging bastards and the sex with them isn't even any good! WTF!