Also spotted yesterday during a beautiful fall day, crisp NW winds:
Kooks. It was like Bring Your Kook to Work Day. It was 1-3'.......it sucked, but I had fun. If that makes any sense.
But good lord don't anybody have any sense.......any common courtesy?
If you are a beginner(which is cool, man. Everyone started at some point) why do you go to the premiere spots and straight out to the best peak? Why?
Why if you got a couple kids, who you're teaching, do you paddle out at the most crowded peak? Move the F down the beach where no one is at. Are you people dim or something.
I had one group paddle out right next to me, one kid stopped inches from where I was sitting, and then he tries to sit on his board and spectaclularly falls off.....right next to me. It was like The Keystone Cops. Then I take off behind the peak on a whopper of a two footer and another kid is trying to drop-in on me. I just cruise around him as he falls and continue down-the-line.
I'm not sure if his daddy gave me a look later or not. I guess it was his kid's wave since the daddy started yelling, "Go...Go On This One....." Well, I was at the peak daddy. Try teaching your kids proper surf etiquette while you're at it.
Oh and what is with you longboarders who paddle out fourty yards past the line-up and just sit there waiting........waiting for what I have no idea. Ummmm, you ain't cathing anything out there, Skippy, no matter how long your board is.
Listen, I got nothin' against beginners. But I do have something against beginners who paddle out at the best peak on an island. GO SOMEWHERE WHERE THERE"S NOBODY AT. Even if it's thirty yards off the pack. Learning how to surf in the midst of a pack is ridiculous for EVERYONE involved.
Didn't your momma's teach you people any manners and respect?
Dear Lord, BRING ON THE COLD..........COLD COLD COLD COLD COLD. DROP THEM TEMPS...............People it's been nice and all, but uhh, see you next June, ok.
It doesn't matter unless your at Pipe! Remember?
Sharks in the Atlantic? How about wood and trex? I pulled out 7 pieces yesterday and the lightest one was like 20lb.None of it floated at all, it was on the bottom where I've been surfing for months. It only took 45min of surfing over this crap to find a nice pile (water was clear).Sketch.
Saw a 4-5ft shark hit a pod of bait fish and go airborne then land on it's side and made a huge splash like 40-50 feet from me at DP, I was the only one in the water, well, me and my buddy Sharky. Then later on at a different break up the road saw a group of younger dudes with GoPros, one had one in his mouth the whole time, it looked like a ball gag, he'd pop up and get as close to his buddies as he could as he "flew" by pointing his mouth in their direction as to say "right here big boy" oh yeah, this was all for 2 foot chop, must be some killer footage
So what. Around here we have porpoises that swim upside down, without effort. just moving slowly, breathing thru their buttholes. hundreds of them. I think they're evolving because they're rejecting the ocean to be land mammals. kinda.
Wow who would have guessed that there is sharks THIS close to the beach! Oh man- I don't know about you guys- but I think I'm going to stop surfing till next summer- I hear the sharks are worse in cold water... You know... When the surfers are out there by themselves... Alone...