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Thread: Why do you surf

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Hammonton, NJ
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    Why do you surf

    Yeah really.......

    Why do you surf?

    Do you surf so you can paddle, out as a novice, into the most crowded spot you can find?

    Do you obliviously drop-in on people and just have no clue?

    Is it just another leisure activity?

    Does anyone still find the adventure and mystique of it all? Do you ever paddle out on grey, cold windy days at a deserted beach by yourself? Do you talk to seagulls?

    Has it all become too easy? Why and when did it become so "mainstream?"

    Is surfing on the same level as bikeriding and bowling?

  2. #2
    same thing I told my dad when I got busted smoking pot as a teenager, "it makes me feel good"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Charleston
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    I joined my surfing league a couple years ago because the kickball and hopscotch leagues were full.

  4. #4
    I actually don't

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    In a state of flux
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    3,161
    To meet women.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,228
    I did a few bird calls to the crew of pelicans that got the set wave the other day. I was paddling for it but was too far inside, and they came in out of nowhere, swooping low and in single file, and they surfed the slipstream down the line. I gave them a couple of loud squawks as a salute to their wave mastery.

    I have not yet engaged in any conversations with seagulls, except to shoo them away from my bait or my sandwich. They are as bad as pigeons.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Stayin' Classy in San Diego
    Posts
    1,870
    I need to do something in between hangovers.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Singer Island
    Posts
    1,228
    Oh, once I got bit by a loon while swimming down the beach, and after I shook him off my hand, I flipped him a bird and told him **** you! People were standing on the beach pointing and laughing, and I had a bill mark on my hand for a week.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Mission Beach/Spring Lake
    Posts
    689
    I surf because your mom has the morning shift at Volcanic Eruptions and i have nothing better to do.

  10. #10
    Whenever I surf with a crowd I notice I operate at a much different frequency then when I surf a quiet reef with a handful of surfers and when I surf alone. The mystique is still there on those days, but on the busy beachbreak days it feels more like a sport.. like mountainbiking or something.

    What most people dont realize where I live is that it doesnt have to be ~a spot~ for you to be able to surf it. Ill take a short section over a shallow reef and break a fin over surfing with the beach crowd any day. There are still waves I have not discovered in my area.. and there will always be new places to find. To me part of the fun is figuring out the spot and surfing it all the way through the tide to really get a feel for it.

    And then eventually that wave disappears. The sand shifts after a big storm and it transforms and its gone. Theres something beautiful and different about that. You dont get it in other sports..

    Seagulls call me a kook when they fly by sometimes.

    Being a kook has become too easy.. what with velcro socks and spicoli and all. But if you want a real challenge try being Roy Stuart for a day.

    Mainstream? Imagine in 10 years. Waterproof Ipods and soccer moms. You wait..