I surf so I don't have to feel guilty about wearing board shorts.
Seriously though, I surf because I love action sports and I live close to the ocean. Going a bit further, I love action sports because I can always get better at them, and I don't have to rely on anyone but myself.
Do you surf so you can paddle, out as a novice, into the most crowded spot you can find?
Do you obliviously drop-in on people and just have no clue?
Is it just another leisure activity?
Does anyone still find the adventure and mystique of it all? Do you ever paddle out on grey, cold windy days at a deserted beach by yourself? Do you talk to seagulls?
Has it all become too easy? Why and when did it become so "mainstream?"
Is surfing on the same level as bikeriding and bowling?
i might be the only serious one here but i surf to keep me sane. between all of the crap and responsibility i have at home after my dad bailed and my mom lost her job, the only thing i do for myself is surf. I surf because out of all the other BS in my life, i can walk away from it all and forget it and be happy. besides music, its the only other thing i truly lose myself in. I'm lucky that i live 5 minutes biking from my spots i surf. I thank higher powers for that everyday. this morning's session was thigh high but it was still great. why? its because I surf.
we ride something we have no control over no matter how hard we try. We take on mother nature no matter what the conditions are. Nothing else in the entire universe matters when we are on a wave. We do it because we straight up love it.
Only a surfer knows the feeling of getting barreled.
Only a surfer knows.
This quote literally gave me goosebumps the first time i saw it and i wholeheartedly believe in it. This is from Bustin' Down the Door credits.
"Deep inside the barrel i became in tune with my inner self, nothing else matters, the hard wind and spit shooting past me from behind, my hand dragging along the wall, the light shines ahead. My long hair carried by the wind. My feet are in perfect placement on the board.
As I lean forward I start speeding up getting faster and faster as the barrel starts to close. I crouch down until my legs start to burn and then i pull out to the whole lineup cheering. My body tingles with joy and happiness. That was the day I became a man."
Seagulls? I always speak to them in their own language.
Seriously, more and more people do it because they are so cool. I'm such a loser, I go out to avoid crowds and not be seen by them. Now that you all know my life sucks because I try to avoid places like First Street on a crowded summer day when there is a wave elsewhere.
Let the rant continue and here I go...
I won't ever truly understand what surfing is until I go to the beach with a brand new board and have my mom take 4,782 pics of my holding a board next to a pier with a sunset behind me with a smirk that says "I am way cooler than you because I surf" not realizing that there are actually no waves (and I mean that literally, like not even knee high).
Hey VA Beach! Guess what?! There are no waves here! None, nada zilch...ever! You should all quit. I am currently accepting surf gear donations. I will be rockin a 9 foot shortboard. You can't miss me. Your dearly departed gear will find a new home, my home.
Fun activities to do now that you've quit...
1. Learning seagull
2. Coercing the said seagulls into a feast. You will feed them bread laced with xanax. They will be lazy and easy to catch or better yet, join them!
3. Driving a go-kart on the beach. I didn't see any restrictions regarding those.
4. Targeting dolphins while hitting golf balls in the ocean. A Seinfeld moment is in your future.
5. Start a T-shirt company. ISn't that what everyone does at the beach?
I started a T-shirt company called Aquadelic. Our motto is: "Take a Liquid Trip". Never made alot of money but I have a lot of cool T shirts. I put the logo on my homemade boards. I'll get around to posting a quiver shot soon.
I surf because it is an obsession, a release, and a great way to go through life, constantly pissed due to lack of swell, or totally surprised to find good waves, or very stoked to feel the ride, and the beauty of the ocean, and the kindness of my comrades, and the amusement of the kooks and touristas, and the thrill of travel, and the connection to a tribe of misfits.