I once clapped for a dolphin after he jumped out of the water, like I was at sea world.
Speaking of seagulls. When you step onto the beach in winter, covered head to toe in rubber- I swear the seagulls look at you like your crazy.
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Thread: Why do you surf
Sep 25, 2013, 07:16 PM #11
Last edited by bassplayer; Sep 25, 2013 at 07:20 PM.
Honestly, there is no place I'd rather be on a cold winter day. I can't wait to sit in empty NJ lineups with my best buds, waiting for head high chocolatey water caves.
Plain and simple, I surf because I'm addicted to it.
Sep 25, 2013, 07:20 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
Sep 25, 2013, 07:27 PM #14
I surf so I don't have to feel guilty about wearing board shorts.
Seriously though, I surf because I love action sports and I live close to the ocean. Going a bit further, I love action sports because I can always get better at them, and I don't have to rely on anyone but myself.
Sep 25, 2013, 07:27 PM #15
I surf because everybody I hate doesn't. When I paddle out it is 100% guranteed my boss, inlaws, co-workers, loser neighbor, etc..... won't be out with me. 100% peace.
Oh yeah, it's fun too.
Sep 25, 2013, 07:30 PM #16
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Virginia Beach
we ride something we have no control over no matter how hard we try. We take on mother nature no matter what the conditions are. Nothing else in the entire universe matters when we are on a wave. We do it because we straight up love it.
Only a surfer knows the feeling of getting barreled.
Only a surfer knows.
This quote literally gave me goosebumps the first time i saw it and i wholeheartedly believe in it. This is from Bustin' Down the Door credits.
"Deep inside the barrel i became in tune with my inner self, nothing else matters, the hard wind and spit shooting past me from behind, my hand dragging along the wall, the light shines ahead. My long hair carried by the wind. My feet are in perfect placement on the board.
As I lean forward I start speeding up getting faster and faster as the barrel starts to close. I crouch down until my legs start to burn and then i pull out to the whole lineup cheering. My body tingles with joy and happiness. That was the day I became a man."
Sep 25, 2013, 07:41 PM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
It "ma ma ma makes me happy"
Seagulls? I always speak to them in their own language.
Seriously, more and more people do it because they are so cool. I'm such a loser, I go out to avoid crowds and not be seen by them. Now that you all know my life sucks because I try to avoid places like First Street on a crowded summer day when there is a wave elsewhere.
Let the rant continue and here I go...
I won't ever truly understand what surfing is until I go to the beach with a brand new board and have my mom take 4,782 pics of my holding a board next to a pier with a sunset behind me with a smirk that says "I am way cooler than you because I surf" not realizing that there are actually no waves (and I mean that literally, like not even knee high).
Hey VA Beach! Guess what?! There are no waves here! None, nada zilch...ever! You should all quit. I am currently accepting surf gear donations. I will be rockin a 9 foot shortboard. You can't miss me. Your dearly departed gear will find a new home, my home.
Fun activities to do now that you've quit...
1. Learning seagull
2. Coercing the said seagulls into a feast. You will feed them bread laced with xanax. They will be lazy and easy to catch or better yet, join them!
3. Driving a go-kart on the beach. I didn't see any restrictions regarding those.
4. Targeting dolphins while hitting golf balls in the ocean. A Seinfeld moment is in your future.
5. Start a T-shirt company. ISn't that what everyone does at the beach?
Sep 25, 2013, 07:47 PM #18
sounds like killakeil found the crackhouse on 24th street, you know the 2br with 6 range rovers in the front yard.
Sep 25, 2013, 08:02 PM #19
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
What else is there to do when there's waves?
Sep 25, 2013, 08:02 PM #20Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2013
- Singer Island
I started a T-shirt company called Aquadelic. Our motto is: "Take a Liquid Trip". Never made alot of money but I have a lot of cool T shirts. I put the logo on my homemade boards. I'll get around to posting a quiver shot soon.
I surf because it is an obsession, a release, and a great way to go through life, constantly pissed due to lack of swell, or totally surprised to find good waves, or very stoked to feel the ride, and the beauty of the ocean, and the kindness of my comrades, and the amusement of the kooks and touristas, and the thrill of travel, and the connection to a tribe of misfits.