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Thread: Why do you surf
Sep 25, 2013, 08:16 PM #21
Last edited by zaGaffer; Sep 25, 2013 at 08:27 PM. Reason: nuff said
Sep 25, 2013, 08:32 PM #22
Sep 25, 2013, 08:50 PM #23Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
Fast forward 1 week later...
I'm smashed and drinkin a 40 on the corner since I'm wise like that and my buddy says dudeman lives right there, lets see what he is up to. He is of course referring to the dudeman mentioned above, we'll call him Patrice. Well Patrice's house from the front porch wreaked of crack (literally smelled the hell out of it). I don't see Patrice's truck any more so I assume he either
1. Sold it for some stones
2. moved like he said he would
3. Had a heart attack
4. Currently behind bars
5. Misplaced truck
The haphazard parking there with the accompanying smell was quite complimentary.
Sep 25, 2013, 08:51 PM #24
I surf because...
It's my sanctuary and is the closest I can get to God while on earth.
I always come out of the water a better person (at least in my mind).
I mold my mind, body, and spirit with the salt water, waves, sand, wind, sun, and the forces of nature.
When I enter the ocean I'm just another animal in the kingdom, interacting with them in their domain, leaving myself vulnerable to natural selection in the food chain.
It puts life in perspective, it shows me how insignificant I really am to the world and the magnitude of it all.
It's the one place I can go and truly have solitude and time for reflection.
It's like a best friend, always there for you when you need it, and never is too busy for you.
I have more fun surfing than doing anything else I can do by myself, (yes even that too)
I love the chase, the surprises, the uncertainty, the JOURNEY.
I can challenge myself doing something few are able or willing to do
I love paddling out all alone when hardly anybody or anything is awake and watching the sun rise from the depths of the ocean to the height of the sky, signifying a new day, a fresh beginning, another chance to change it all...
Jesus Christ.........I post this...... step away to watch black guys kill other black guys on A&E's The First 48 and there's like 3 pages already. Actually, one of the cases was a whitey murking a Mexican in North Carolina....YAY, Erock !!!
Next thread I'm going to ax what your favorite foods are.....maybe what your favorite movie be.
Ok here's a test:
You arrive at the beach. It's 2-3 foot. It's fun. There's waves as far as the eye can see(up and down the beach). One peak seems a tad more consistent, and a LITTLE bit bigger here and there. There's 30 dudes within a twenty-thirty yard area(on that peak). Do you:
A. Join the pack
B. Go down the beach to an empty peak
Your friends from work scheduled a mountain biking excursion. You said you'd go two weeks ago. As the day approaches, the bubs are setting up to be classic. The bike riding day is going to be head high, from a non-tropical groundswell well off the coast. The winds are going to be dead to 5 mph West. Do you:
A. Keep your bike riding date
B. Tell the fellows from work to suck it....you're going surfing
You live in Bayhead, NJ and it's good - knee high and offshore(that's for you, Fitz). All of sudden here comes Rob Kelly, Andrew Gessler, some other South Jersey F@GS, and a photogrpaher, maybe Seth Stafford. Do you:
A. Smile and kiss their arses.
B. Throw them a vibe and threaten prison sodomy
It's a cold winter day. The waves are 4-6 foot and a little choppy. It's grey and moody. No ones out. No one's on the beach. You are spooked. Do you:
A. Search for a spot where someone else is........try Ocean City
B. Shine it all, go home and watch Teen Mom 3
C. Suck it up, put your fears aside and paddle out. It builds character. You'll feel much better even if you only catch one wave.
Wow, that must have been alot of crack smoking going down.....tell-tale crack smell is gone in a few seconds......Swoosh, just like that and it's gone. Ahhhhh I love the smell of ready rock in the morning........
757 Surfer, sorry aboot your misfortunes. Just keep going and things will work out. Stay away from 24th St. Drugs stop working after awhile and they just add more problems to your load. Just remember what Nancy Regan said.
Lee/Killa.......where's this dude's house at?
I love you guys......each and everyone of youse.
Sep 25, 2013, 10:21 PM #28Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Marthas Vineyard
Sep 25, 2013, 10:37 PM #29
B B B C good questions
Sep 25, 2013, 10:38 PM #30
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Virginia Beach
o. and B B A C. Ive done all of the above except kiss ass and try to get pictures. Id like at least one good picture of me surfing haha