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Thread: Why do you surf
Sep 26, 2013, 03:49 PM #61
...because it keeps my PTSD in check better the the va!
There have been countless times where people (horrible drivers, idiots at the bar, etc.) have escaped horrible beatings because surfing has calmed the demons. I welcome the gray windy big days when everyone else is waiting for the cleanup or looking for a popular jetty. Not cuz I'm hard or because I " rip" , it's because the fear of uncertainty in the ocean is the closest I can get to the rush of combat.
Someone said it causes them to forget for a minute while they catch a wave. It does that for me the moment I grab my gear till the smell of salt water comes out of the rope braclet my daughter made for me.
Sep 26, 2013, 04:10 PM #63
- Join Date
- Dec 2007
Sep 26, 2013, 04:25 PM #64
Sep 26, 2013, 05:25 PM #65
I could mark "ditto" for most of the comments. But the number one reason is I can't get that feeling any other way. I've been an adrenaline junkie all my life (and my body has paid for it). Used to race moto-x, skateboard, ski, water ski, kneeboard, boogie board, mtn bike, etc. until some fellers smarter than me invented snowboards and wakeboards, then I started beating the hell out of myself on those. Played hockey too. Then one day I went surfing and actually stood up and caught my first wave, and have been obsessed with it ever since. Nothing I've ever done gives me that same feeling as being carried by a wave. Not even driving 100mph on acid.
Someone here compared it to sex. Well I got my cherry popped that day and I've been a nymphomaniac wave slut ever since.
Sep 26, 2013, 07:46 PM #66
Keeps me sane, literally. Surfed the other afternoon, waves were small but clean. About 5 people out and knew most of them. Stayed over to the side, didn't do much talking, and just took the whole thing in. Didn't want to get out, but darkness won.
10 yrs ago, probably wouldn't have even gone out because it was too small. As I have gotten older, I appreciate every session, every wave, as an opportunity to get better and forget about all the nonsense. Also know I wouldn't have written anything so corny 10 yrs ago either.
Get a big kick out of reading all the battles and back and forth on this forum, but have to say that there are also quite a few threads that remind me how much I truly need to surf.
Sep 26, 2013, 08:03 PM #67Junior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
Simple....it's my church. I go out there to connect with the ocean. Sometimes it's beautiful out there and sometimes it's dingy, gray or even raining. I paddle out to stay humble. The ocean, storms and sea life remind me how little I am on this planet and to not take anything for granted. I am thankful for every moment that is given to me and every moment I have is an attempt to return to the sea.
Last week I surfed with dolphins, today, I opted to stay on the beach and avoid the Humpback Whales feeding 100 yards offshore. The sand was cool in between my toes but the sun was warm on my back. The air was moist and salty. My coffee was the perfect temperature and the other people on the beach were all happy to be there. Most of them late or ditching obligations to just come and BE at the beach. The better question is why wouldn't you want to be a surfer? \nm/
Sep 26, 2013, 11:55 PM #68Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
I remember when I was little kid buying my first Surfing magazine because it was the bikini issue. Cut it all up and hung all the picts on my walls. I can remember staring at the surfing posters on my wall and actually thinking of what it would feel like to surf on those waves. That Xmas I got a bunch of money and went over beachside to a seedy pawn shop and bought my first surfboard. Was a Randy Richenburg (Florida shaper) that had about a foot of the nose broken off and re-attached! Also had glassed wooden fins.
Was hooked ever since. Surfed my first contest a year later in the ESA on a brand new custom Richenburg my dad had shaped for me for Xmas! My dad loved to fish, so every weekend he would take me my brother and friends to the beach. He loved to fish at the Inlet (NSB/Ponce) and the pier and those were also the best surf spots! Now any chance I get, my son and I go surfing! Just took him on his first to Nicaragua and it was one of the greatest times of both our lives!
Thank the good Lord for surfing!!!
Sep 27, 2013, 12:07 AM #69
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Turtle Island
Sep 27, 2013, 03:54 AM #70
"I once read about a drug which seemed to slow down time...
Something like that is happening to me now..."
Surfers and the Lunatic Fringe know what I'm talking about.
10 seconds on a wave can seem blissful and eternal. Always a positive in an otherwise questionable world.