Crusty can of worms opened. Your buddy almost drowned, his did not. He made a judgement call you did too, ended different didn't it? Now eat your crusty worms 40 yr old grommet!!
Early 30s and my current edition would run circles against your best early 20s version bruddah, downshift a bit there.
At no point did I wish struggle or anything short of stoke upon my brah. Clearly two different judgment calls if making your buddy sweat a hard one is an intention at all. Different outcomes, certainly. Different conditions existed that day, similar to yesterday with the addition of surprise sideshore gusts a few dozen miles per hour.
Emass what spots did you scope? Some of the beachbreaks were pushing 4-6 ft where I was and clean as a moth ear fawker. Don't worry about closeouts bro, you gotta be quick if you wanna hit that lip. Makes you a better surfer.
I love the closeouts mang. They do make you better. It is all about the early jump on them and I moved to my feet on that sucka faster than when my father used to come at me with a belt in small kid time. Thought I had it and I did get basically the whole drop but then that fat lip spit too far ahead. Either that or I went too much DTL and not enough out in the flats. Probably what happened since I did grab a rail on part of the drop. A longer oblique carve wouldve suited me better but I didn't have all sorts of planning time once it was jackingd up a couple floors.
Schitt was mad fun and I'll take those anytime. Just don't like it closing when it doesn't appear to be so. One thing I definitely learned from watching the Hurley Pro live is just how good those cats are at identifying the fate of oncoming waves based on their shape at certain points. I'm sure I'll reach a point where I can see closeouts coming most of the time. Until then I'll just have to eat up!!!