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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,181
    I believe that being young and athletic in a variety of sports are aides in picking up surfing if the proper attitude and desire are there. What I sometimes see in young folks though is the defeatist mindset that if you can't be perfect or a star from the start, then there's no use trying. Some don't seem to understand the value of persistence, and that the pros had to be extremely dedicated and work very hard to reach the level they're at. Even they make mistakes and must practice.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    VA Beach
    Posts
    1,181
    Quote Originally Posted by Scbe View Post
    A friend recently noted that among his gradchildren the one that excelled at surfing was the one that was the least athletically inclined. I have heard this before that sometimes the best surfers that pick it up the quickest are not always the kids that do well in sports.

    I wonder why that is???
    Attitude, desire, and persistence.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    250
    Surfing for the first time, one gets hooked or not. Whether one does good or not doesn't matter. It's about having a great time, big or small. The whole martial art thing is great because it teaches balance n body awareness, plus ya get to kick Azz. Why ya see all thee surf camps having yoga, tai chi n such. Body awareness is a big thing in surfing. Kids should be able to choose their sport. Not the darn parents. I get tired of seeing this weekly. Athletic or not doesn't matter, except for paddling. What matters is about have a good time with like minded people. It's good your g kid did well n I hope ya told him that as well as the other g kids. Keep showing them some fun n ride on.

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by ChavezYChavez View Post
    I think what is happening today is that if you don't dedicate your self to one specific sport or interest AT A REALLY EARLY AGE then you will not be able to play that sport by High School.
    While it's certainly in the statistics and common knowledge of motor control that early onset of training in a specific physical domain will typically elicit the highest ceiling for potential, I laugh at the above statement. How about not playing in high school but being a collegiate star? It happens. Not often, but it happens. Commitment is a powerful thing.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by DosXX View Post
    I believe that being young and athletic in a variety of sports are aides in picking up surfing if the proper attitude and desire are there. What I sometimes see in young folks though is the defeatist mindset that if you can't be perfect or a star from the start, then there's no use trying. Some don't seem to understand the value of persistence, and that the pros had to be extremely dedicated and work very hard to reach the level they're at. Even they make mistakes and must practice.
    Very good and accurate post, though it needs some emphasis. Those at the highest levels of their sport or any other non-athletic specialty for that matter, are by far the most committed and dedicated to their domain of all participants in it world-wide. It is well past the border of obsession. To be at the top of the food chain in anything, your entire daily purpose is centered around continued progression and your daily existence is very atypical from society's dawn til dusk routine.

    Everyone is very talented at the highest levels of anything. Elite talent alone won't even get you a seat at the big table; it is so much more than that. The apex predator, or champion, is the one who stops at nothing to reach the pinnacle. You don't stumble upon greatness. You leave everything else behind and tread the path until you get there. Once you're at the top, staying there is just as hard, if not harder than the road to getting there to begin with.

  6. #36
    Thanks for so many thought provoking replys. Definitions aside, I suggest that many folks here surf mostly for the sheer joy of it rather than for some form of recognition. I do enjoy it when I do well and someone is watching but that is not what keeps me going back for more. I agree with several who say that there is a different type of personality that takes satisfaction from just being in the ocean surfing whether one does well or barely stands up. I think it is an unusual personality that is willing to go out in cold or rough conditions and let out a victory yell after making a nice drop that no one was around to see or aplaud.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Two Rivers Area, NJ
    Posts
    238
    I grew up playing team sports and surfing as a kid, and played rugby in college. As an old man, I still play pick up basketball. The one constant has been surfing though, as I never got sick of it. Just as stoked in my 40s as I was in my teens. I always enjoyed, and still do, being part of a team with one singular goal, but I also love that I can go surf by myself and have a blast.

    As for the physical aspect, surfing definitely is a workout. I don't care if it is a sport or not, but I'd hate to see what kind of shape I'd be in if I didn't surf.

    As for the mental, I truly think it is the only thing that keeps me sane. Surfing allows me to cut though all the clutter and chaos, prioritize what's important, and be grateful.